Every time I try to discuss making a thread sticky I get shot down12 Volt Man;3451387; said:
Show your support here if you want a sticky please
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271394
How long does it take for dechlor to kill chlorine ?
- Thread starter tcarswell
- Start date
Show your support here if you want a sticky please
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271394
okay, I looked at your water info and your water looks good.
what you want to do is compare the data in the columns labelled MCL or MCLG which is the Maximum Contaminant Level or Maximum Contaminant Level Goal, which is the highest amount of a substance that could be contained in your tap water without causing you harm.
you will see that for everything, the average value detected is well BELOW that of the MCL, which means it is very safe to drink and safe for your fish.
as far as pesticides, etc, its not really a concern for your fish, or you for that matter. the levels are very very very dilute.
you should have no trouble drinking the water or keeping your fish healthy in it
what you want to do is compare the data in the columns labelled MCL or MCLG which is the Maximum Contaminant Level or Maximum Contaminant Level Goal, which is the highest amount of a substance that could be contained in your tap water without causing you harm.
you will see that for everything, the average value detected is well BELOW that of the MCL, which means it is very safe to drink and safe for your fish.
as far as pesticides, etc, its not really a concern for your fish, or you for that matter. the levels are very very very dilute.
you should have no trouble drinking the water or keeping your fish healthy in it
Thank you !12 Volt Man;3451430; said:okay, I looked at your water info and your water looks good.
what you want to do is compare the data in the columns labelled MCL or MCLG which is the Maximum Contaminant Level or Maximum Contaminant Level Goal, which is the highest amount of a substance that could be contained in your tap water without causing you harm.
you will see that for everything, the average value detected is well BELOW that of the MCL, which means it is very safe to drink and safe for your fish.
as far as pesticides, etc, its not really a concern for your fish, or you for that matter. the levels are very very very dilute.
you should have no trouble drinking the water or keeping your fish healthy in it
Anybody else does the dripping in of water replacement? How much chlorine dissipates when it made to drip into the tank/pond, anybody have any idea on this?
MeAko;3452064; said:
Chloramine does not dissipate via aeration... thus the dripping method will have no effect if your local water has chloramine... 12V, feel free to add more detail to that point if available...
If yo uhave a constant drip system and no chloramine (chlorine only)... then the drip method is fine. Seeing that the sheer volume of the tank would dilute the chlorine levels to basically nothing until it dissipated into literally nothing...
If you are adding water after a water change at a fast rate and are attempting to dissipate via dripping... Then I would suggest withthe low cost of chlorine removing agents, why not play it on the safe side and use a dechlor?
nc_nutcase;3452092; said:
ditto. play it safe.
but did the poster already attempt this method w/o any consequences?
nc_nutcase;3452092; said:
Here is the FAQ from our water supplier:
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]h. Post Treatment - just before the filtered water leaves the treatment plant, lime, chlorine and fluoride may be added to the water. Chlorine is added to disinfect the water in order to ensure its safeness for the consumer; fluoride, to prevent tooth decay; and lime, to correct the PH or acidity levels of the water, thereby preventing corrosion of the pipes in the distribution system.
I take it that this would mean that our water does NOT have chloramines.
Ergo, my current practice of removing water from my tanks (40%) and pond (25%) and then dripping in the water replacement does seem to be sound. I like the idea of being able to just leave the hose the whole day dripping in the replacement water. This saves a lot of time and energy having to add dechlor as the water is flowing in, really can't add full measure to the pond as I would be having to buy gallons of dechlor for it every so often.
Anybody else does this dripping in water replacement practice? Note that this is different from the constant drip method.
[/FONT]
12 Volt Man;3450998; said:I mentioned contact time in my post about chlorine. I know in ontario, the standard contact time for water at the treatment plant to be exposed to chlorine is 20 minutes. granted, no doubt they are extra conservative.
for wastewater (my side) it used to be 12-15 minutes if I recall. the creek is not as particular about the level of faecal coliform bacteria in the water as humans are when they drink it
the water operators have whats called a multiple barrier concept set up.
remember how I said that chlorine is a surface disinfectant? well, if you have a bug hidden inside a dirt particle, the chlorine cannot get to it.
this is why tap water must be very clear (low suspended solids) because suspended solids can trap bugs and sheild them from the chlorine. the way around this is filtration prior to disinfection, hence the multiple barrier concept.
a bit off topic I know, but if we are talking about chlorine in tap water, I think it helps to have some background info as to how it is used at the treatment plant.
(when I was studying to become an operator, I didn't know where I would end up, so I got certified in both water and wastewater, but ended up in wastewater as the job offer came up first and I was poor LOL)
i will continue to add prime then put the hose in my tank, although i will say i fill my tanks up very slowly. i do not believe i am harming my fish by doing this when i do this to fry tanks and they have grown to become large beautiful fish. thanks 12 volt
MeAko,
I agree, the message you quoted suggests your local water has chlorine, but not chloramine.
I do not see how drip replacement would be practical during a "water change". If you drain your aquarium down 40%, then just drip the water back in, I think the chances of forgetting and overfilling are huge. Also this would leave the water level low for hours on end which could allow other problems. For example thisthe fish would have 40% less space. This may force some fish to hide in another fish's territory which may create aggression issues. I personally turn off filters & heaters during water changes and leaving these off for hours may have negative impacts. This could allow bacteria that lives on walls/decor/equipment above th ewater line to dry out and die... etc...
As for the pond, if it is set up so that overfilling is not a problem, then this may be an acceptable way to do a water change. Although I still see it as having more potential to cause problems than to benefit you. Although only you know your set up and your scedule, so I may be wrong on this.
I agree, the message you quoted suggests your local water has chlorine, but not chloramine.
I do not see how drip replacement would be practical during a "water change". If you drain your aquarium down 40%, then just drip the water back in, I think the chances of forgetting and overfilling are huge. Also this would leave the water level low for hours on end which could allow other problems. For example thisthe fish would have 40% less space. This may force some fish to hide in another fish's territory which may create aggression issues. I personally turn off filters & heaters during water changes and leaving these off for hours may have negative impacts. This could allow bacteria that lives on walls/decor/equipment above th ewater line to dry out and die... etc...
As for the pond, if it is set up so that overfilling is not a problem, then this may be an acceptable way to do a water change. Although I still see it as having more potential to cause problems than to benefit you. Although only you know your set up and your scedule, so I may be wrong on this.
not necessarily. the raw water source may have ammonia in it. you could contact the treatment plant to find out.
sometimes, ammonia is added at the plant. other times it is not because there can be ammonia present in the source water.
if there is no ammonia in the raw water source, and no ammonia added at the plant, then yes, there would be no chloramines.
