How much
- Thread starter AnDr3w
- Start date
AnDr3w;756190; said:
will this work?
I dont see a need for the eheim, your wet dry will do a great job filtering so there is no need for it. also the way you have it mapped out has one flaw; if your pump has a different flow rate than your ehiem(the only thing I see feeding the w/d) it wont work. the water should free flow back into the w/d.
if your hellbent on having the eheim you need another line to free flow down to the wet dry. i dont know how much you know about w/d's so instead of getting all detailed just ask what part you dont get and why. I'll put a pick of mine for you...just let me go searching.
Originaly I planned to use a 55 as my w/d for my 150G but decided to keep the tank and go with a cheaper alternative
heres pics of the w/d setup:
great filter, very cost effective, heres the parts list:
1 pump -most expensive part (mag1800 for my 150G)
Blue bonded filter pad
1 large plastic bin -clear b/c I like to see everything
2 small bins - stacked on top or eachother, drilled & filled w/ bioballs
6x9 media bag w carbon blend (to get the original tap h2o corrected)
PVC pipe (or you could use tubing)
[I made my returns two spray bars but thats just up to prefference]
the only thing is put a ball valve on every line, and a check valve on your return line.
hope it helps and id be glad to answer any questions
heres pics of the w/d setup:
great filter, very cost effective, heres the parts list:
1 pump -most expensive part (mag1800 for my 150G)
Blue bonded filter pad
1 large plastic bin -clear b/c I like to see everything
2 small bins - stacked on top or eachother, drilled & filled w/ bioballs
6x9 media bag w carbon blend (to get the original tap h2o corrected)
PVC pipe (or you could use tubing)
[I made my returns two spray bars but thats just up to prefference]
the only thing is put a ball valve on every line, and a check valve on your return line.
hope it helps and id be glad to answer any questions
What's a ball valve and a check valve?
And the only reason I would use the Eheim is is that I already have it and I rather have it running then sitting in a box. I dont know how to get the water from the tank to my sump. Should I buy one of those HOB premade over flows, and hook it up to my sump? Or how should I do it? I'm sorry I don't know too much about this, but can you go over it in extreme detail? Thank you sooooo much.
And the only reason I would use the Eheim is is that I already have it and I rather have it running then sitting in a box. I dont know how to get the water from the tank to my sump. Should I buy one of those HOB premade over flows, and hook it up to my sump? Or how should I do it? I'm sorry I don't know too much about this, but can you go over it in extreme detail? Thank you sooooo much.
I wouldnt use a check valve,if you rely on it it may fail when need.
Take a look @ the sticky up top on DIY overflow
Take a look @ the sticky up top on DIY overflow
I'll try an clear it up for you,
ball valves -let you shut off or restrict flow
check valves - dont allow back flow (and are only needed on the return line)
you need ball valves no matter what it will make your life easier when it comes time to clean your filter or make any adjustments. Ball valves are cheap - so put them on your lines dropping in to the w/d and on your return line.
as for your question it all depends on the size of your w/d and and how many gallons will back flow when pump is shut off. (remember, your returns are what will syphon the water out of your tank, so there level is very important if you dont put in a check valve)
Ill work up a picture, maybe it will help.
ball valves -let you shut off or restrict flow
check valves - dont allow back flow (and are only needed on the return line)
you need ball valves no matter what it will make your life easier when it comes time to clean your filter or make any adjustments. Ball valves are cheap - so put them on your lines dropping in to the w/d and on your return line.
as for your question it all depends on the size of your w/d and and how many gallons will back flow when pump is shut off. (remember, your returns are what will syphon the water out of your tank, so there level is very important if you dont put in a check valve)
Ill work up a picture, maybe it will help.
alright here is a pic thay might help
I dont have a check valve, as the water that syphons back when the power is off is less than the capacity of my w/d. The reason is my water level in tank only drops about a 1/2"; thats fill about 3/4s of the w/d; meaning it will never overflow. But you mentioned your "intakes" being 4-5"s below water level, a check valve wont help with that. (i think you might be off on that #, a hang on over flow kit drops the water level less than an inch). ?Clear that one up for me, maybe I miss understood.?
hope the pic helps, let me know if you have any questions.
I dont have a check valve, as the water that syphons back when the power is off is less than the capacity of my w/d. The reason is my water level in tank only drops about a 1/2"; thats fill about 3/4s of the w/d; meaning it will never overflow. But you mentioned your "intakes" being 4-5"s below water level, a check valve wont help with that. (i think you might be off on that #, a hang on over flow kit drops the water level less than an inch). ?Clear that one up for me, maybe I miss understood.?
hope the pic helps, let me know if you have any questions.
