how to cure ick?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
well got GREAT NEWS:

i can run my heater but wont beable to use the light ( told her that i had a talk with you all and that the light takes up more elec then the heater does ) so she is letting me use the heater and only use the light when im doing tank maintance!

i dont really need the light right??
 
SeaweedPimp;3917948; said:
Im sure that you got it from the store. Ich likes to pop up in bad water conditions i think.
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L!$A;3917950; said:
Hopefully it works hun.. I would say it may be a temporary solution, some fish are just more susceptible to ich then others, which is why you probably didn't get it before the molly's. Ich is usually caused by stress, or bad water parameters.
Although, after treating fish for ich and they recover, they do become somewhat immune to it.. so it will be harder to contract ich again. Not saying that they won't get it again, just that it would be harder for them to get it again.
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Saying bad water conditions cause the presence of ich is rather misleading. Bad water conditions DO cause stress which in turn causes the ich to appear as outbreaks immediately. HOWEVER, ich can only be introduced if one of the fish is already carrying it. Unquarantined specimens make a nice entry point for ich towards your other stocks. That is why you SHOULD quarantine every new fish for 3-4 weeks, no less than that.

scrup;3921604; said:
Just so you know, an aquarium heater does not use THAT much power. It's not on all the time, just when the temp needs to be raised in the tank.

Your fish will not live at those temps very long. You may want to look into coldwater fish if a heater is not an option. they are TROPICAL fish (tropics..warm areas..bahamas...ya know?)
which means they need temperatures that are in the high 70s-low 80s.

Heater + rock salt (kind you use for ice cream, make sure its food grade) will cure ich in livebearers and will do less damage than most meds. Livebearers are incredibly tolerant of salt, mollies can actually be slowly adjusted to live in seawater.

Malachite green medications will work, but it can be hard on the fish, and it will stain everything in the tank green.

Sorry people were so argumentative over things. shoot me a PM if you need any more help.
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:iagree:

Do NOT use salt in combination with anything containing formalin. It hits the fish even harder and in the process, killing them. If you plan to switch to anything containing formalin, do 60-80% water changes daily for at least 3-5 days to give your fish a break before proceeding to any meds containing formalin. UNLESS you find yourself dealing with salt-resistant strains of ich, then continue using salt and put other meds aside.

Allan01230;3921626; said:
Fish that don't need a heater---goldfish white cloud montain minnows zebra fish giant dianos. If you like your livebears you need a HEATER AND ON 24/7. Keeping it on 4 hours a day will be a waste of time. A heater will probally cost a quarter a week to run. Ever thing of doing natives?
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It depends totally on the room temperature. You cannot generalize their basic requirements without putting into consideration the area where environmental conditions tend to vary.
 
well the heater ( the hot bar part where the thing warms the tank up with ) wont shut off and the light wont come on but the temp is b/w 78 to 82 im trying to get the temp to stay at 78 to 80. but will the sun cause the heat to rise if the tank gets sunlight? it was at 78 to 80 but when the sun hit it. it reached 82 and now im trying to get it back down to 78 to 80
 
What thermometer are you using?

Sunlight can cause temperature fluctuations.
 
Get internal thermometer. No mercury in it.
 
That's why I am suggesting to you to get internal thermometer.
 
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