...Just to add a bit-- the reason lowering pH to a stable target value can take some tinkering and monitoring to work out is that, besides pH, you're dealing with alkalinity, technically not the same. pH essentially measures hydrogen ions (acid) in the water, alkalinity relates to carbonate/bicarbonate in the water, or "buffering" capacity. Alkalinity acts like a sponge, you can add acids and, in effect, it 'buffers' pH by absorbing them, keeping pH stable. This 'sponge' can become full, so it can't take on anymore acid, which is when you can have a pH crash. Sufficient buffering prevents this.
Therefore, lowering pH and keeping it stable, so it doesn't go right back up or doesn't go too low, can be something of a balancing act to work out and more fussing than if your water just stays at it's natural pH on its own, or does so without any fuss by simply adding something like baking soda or a commercial 'buffer'. A lot of people prefer to avoid any extra fussing with chemistry and just keep fish that suit their local water.