paOol said:
the black diamond is charcol its for removing meds and stained water you don't need this you need water conditoner usally sold as black water or waters of the world i'll look for you on big als and post it
how to lower ph quickly??
- Thread starter paOol
- Start date
the black diamond is charcol its for removing meds and stained water you don't need this you need water conditoner usally sold as black water or waters of the world i'll look for you on big als and post it
C02 will lower your PH. And your plants will love it (if you have the lights for it). Pressurized is the only way to go on a large tank (+55gallons). I did my 75 gallon tank for about $540. Total! Lights and everything!
Milwaukee "Top Gun" regulator ($100 @ Aquariumplants.com)
Lights 1- All Glass Triple Florescent ($119 @ BigAls.com)
Lights 1-All Glass 110 Watt Compact florescent ($119 @ BigAls.com)
Substrate- 4 Bags Seachem Flourite (LFS $24/Bag)
10 LB C02 Cylinder ($100 @ Welding shop)
C02 is most effective on tanks with 2 watts/gallon. It helps below that, but the "bang for the buck" is low. It's almost mandatory for over 22 watts/gallon.
Milwaukee "Top Gun" regulator ($100 @ Aquariumplants.com)
Lights 1- All Glass Triple Florescent ($119 @ BigAls.com)
Lights 1-All Glass 110 Watt Compact florescent ($119 @ BigAls.com)
Substrate- 4 Bags Seachem Flourite (LFS $24/Bag)
10 LB C02 Cylinder ($100 @ Welding shop)
C02 is most effective on tanks with 2 watts/gallon. It helps below that, but the "bang for the buck" is low. It's almost mandatory for over 22 watts/gallon.
Another way to lower pH slowly is by doing waterchanges with distilled water until it is the pH you want, then adding a mix of dechlorinated tap water and distilled to keep it constant. In my experience, pH is not important as long as it does not change too fast (unless you are keeping a very delicate fish or plant).
Howdy,
First of all, the adjustment of the pH value of your tank with CO2 is not optimal. You are limited by the kH of your water. Thus, it can be costly and even dangerous for your fish.
Second, yes, peat moss wears out, and it colors your water. To prevent fluctuations, you will need a lot of peat and change it regularly. The intervals are determined by the hardness of your water, the size of your tank, the pH and the amount and quality of your peat. You have to monitor the pH and kH and gH closely. After a while, at a lower pH, peat will actually act as buffer and stabilize the water parameters. All this then changes again with the next water change. Generally, peat seems not the way to go for you. It is generally only used for minor pH adjustments and buffering. Considering your fish, you really need to lower your pH permanently. What pH does your tap water have? Maybe it's something in your tank that alters the pH, which would be the easiest way to take care of it
Otherwise, in my eyes, RO is your way to go. But I am sure guys in the set-up and filtration forum will have more ideas about it.
Third, you should not be able to detect nitrite in your water at all. I strongly recommend to increase your biofiltration!
Last but not least, please consider that the pH value is logarithmic. The difference between pH 8 and 7 is 10-fold acidity/alkalinity.
HarleyK
First of all, the adjustment of the pH value of your tank with CO2 is not optimal. You are limited by the kH of your water. Thus, it can be costly and even dangerous for your fish.
Second, yes, peat moss wears out, and it colors your water. To prevent fluctuations, you will need a lot of peat and change it regularly. The intervals are determined by the hardness of your water, the size of your tank, the pH and the amount and quality of your peat. You have to monitor the pH and kH and gH closely. After a while, at a lower pH, peat will actually act as buffer and stabilize the water parameters. All this then changes again with the next water change. Generally, peat seems not the way to go for you. It is generally only used for minor pH adjustments and buffering. Considering your fish, you really need to lower your pH permanently. What pH does your tap water have? Maybe it's something in your tank that alters the pH, which would be the easiest way to take care of it
Otherwise, in my eyes, RO is your way to go. But I am sure guys in the set-up and filtration forum will have more ideas about it. Third, you should not be able to detect nitrite in your water at all. I strongly recommend to increase your biofiltration!
Last but not least, please consider that the pH value is logarithmic. The difference between pH 8 and 7 is 10-fold acidity/alkalinity.
HarleyK
paOol said:
I use it in my tanks and like it. I have a fluval 305 on my 45 hex comm tank and have it between the regular charcoal and the biomax. Works well. I also have a Emperor 400 on my 55g tank with the black diamond in the baskets for it and it works well there too. I just ordered a fluval 404 for it and will put the black diamond in it. Although this time I will put the black diamond in filter bags or whatever they're called. I had to pick out some of the charcoal from the water after getting the other fluval to work. But I like that stuff. My tanks have never been cleaner or clearer.
