How to plumb a sump when tank is drilled this way.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
nice pickup the novus works great

i cant believe he drilled the front of the tank..... thats just.... amazing...
 
I think the front of the tank was drilled after it got scratched beyond recognition and the back became the "show pane". The pictures really dont do the haze justice. It doesnt look to bad when it is filled with water, but I know if I dont "refinish" it now it will bother me down the road. Anyone have any suggestions as far as the 600grit to 2000grit sand paper? I am hoping this will be enough to sand out the huge scratches and then buff the haze left behind from the 2000 with the novus. Will it work?
 
Does anyone know if the lexan and loctite marine epoxy will work on the crack?
 
Okay while I am waiting on the novus to arrive, I have a tracking number for it so I must be on the right track... I decided to put together my idea for the spray bar's (dry of course). Since the front of the tank is now the back of the tank it's already drilled for returns on what is now the front:nilly:. So I concocted these. Once the canopy is back on the tank the outer parts will not be visible and I'm going to paint all the pvc black after it's all cemented together. Any thoughts and or criticism is welcome. ( I put the ball valves in the mix because of the small diameter of the overflows so that I can control the return flow)

Also I was pondering if I should use vinyl tubing attatched to the overflows with barb fitting's to complete the drain to the sump. I guess my logic is the less 90 degree turns the better. I bought 8' of 1" tubing when I bought the rest of this stuff just incase it was a feesable alternative.

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There is a CHOMPERS clause in Murphy's Law that states the longer my reply, the greater the probability that it will get eaten just before I submit it. :nilly: Normally it is my computer that does it, but this time MFK did it. I got a message stating that I had logged back in after clicking the reply button, and said to click the back button for what ever reason. When I did, my post was gone. :irked:

Anyway, I'm going to answer as many questions tonight as I can in small messages.

The cracked material is no longer supporting the top of the tank. You need to repair it with at least as much material that is cracked. The acrylic looks very minimal to begin with, so I'd rather see you over do it a little.

Lexan is polycarbonate and Plexiglas is acrylic. The tank is also acrylic.

Look into getting a pint of Weldon #4 before you cover the crack. You will drip it over the crack and capilary action will draw it in. Then you will need to clamp the tank from front to back to close up the crack. After it is allowed to dry, then you can put the sheets over it. I would buy two sheets of Plexiglass to put on first using more of the Weldon, and then you can add the two sheets of polycarbonate.
 
About those bulkhead fittings and the pump.

You mentioned the bulkheads/plumbing was 3/4". From the looks of the tank, I am fairly certain that they need to be changed out for larger ones.

What is the size of the tank (dimensions or gallons)? To verify the gallons, measure in feet, LxWxDx7.5=gallons
or inches, LxWxDx7.5/1728=gallons

To drill or redrill the tank, you can get a set of hole saws for just under $5 from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...do?itemid=94665&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

You can get cheap bulkhead fittings from Aquatic Ecosystems
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2985/Bulkhead-Fittings-Economy/bulkheads/0
 
I defiantly agree that Weldon is the product you should use to repair that crack- whether it’s #4 or 16 that is the stuff to use when bonding acrylic.
 
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