How to pretreat/raise baby peacock bass from ich and parasites

[Rocksor]

"Prevention is always preferable to treating "Ich" (or any disease) after an outbreak is in progress. Preventing introduction of this parasite is one of the most important reasons all incoming fish should be quarantined. Transport and handling can cause newly arrived fish who may be asymptomatic carriers (those with no obvious clinical signs) to break with active disease, serving as a source of infection for other fish they may come in contact with. At the warm water temperatures required for many aquarium fish, active disease will often become evident 1–3 weeks after shipping. For this reason, a minimum 30-day quarantine period is recommended for new fish."

CIR920/FA006: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish

 

[aussieman57]

""At warmer water temperatures (75–79°F), use of 4–5 g/L (= 4–5 ppt) salt (sodium chloride) in a prolonged bath for 7 to 10 days is another effective treatment in smaller systems, provided the fish species can handle the salt concentration. Because theronts are intolerant to increased salinity levels of 3–5 ppt, salt is often added to aquaria or tanks that are being treated with formalin to enhance the response to treatment. Most freshwater fish can tolerate 5 ppt salinity for several weeks and many can live in 3 ppt permanently; ""

CIR920/FA006: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (Ich) is a protozoan parasite that can cause severe losses in aquaculture and aquariums. It is introduced via new fish, substrates, plants, or equipment. Preventive measures include quarantining and treating new fish, holding plants without fish, and disinfecting...

edis.ifas.ufl.edu

This one shows that one part of the lifecycle (hatching) doesn't go any faster
"...theronts escaped tomocysts already after 16–27h at 25°C and 30°C" (77f-86f)

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1439-0426.2001.00279.x

This one doesn't state that any higher than 75F will get you a quicker lifecycle
"To complete its life cycle, Ich requires from less than 4 days (at temperatures higher than 75o F or 24o C) to more than 5 weeks (at temperatures lower than 45o F or 7o C)."
See Table 1... no treatment option after 75F, since treatment is for everyday already at that temperature.

https://aquaculture.ca.uky.edu/sites/aquaculture.ca.uky.edu/files/srac_476_ich_white_spot_disease.pdf

Page 182, Table 1 under the Sodium Chloride (Salt) treatment for Tandus tandus, 23-26C for a 7 day period

https://dspace.stir.ac.uk/bitstream/1893/10147/1/Picon%20Camacho%20et%20al%20Parasitology%20Ich%20chemo%20review.pdf

None of these studies show going to 80F has any benefit. The last one even has a range of 73.4f-78.8f for a treatment period of 7 days with salt.

Thank you.

 

[ruincccc]

I have localy fish stores treat loaches and other scaless fish with malachite green at 1/2 dosage on day 1, then full dosage on day 2, etc and have no issues. Seachem Paraguard dip won't work since the ich parasite is immune to medication as white spots on the fish. You have to use it long term for 2-3 weeks, and re dose everyday. You do not need to raise the temperature any higher when treating medication because any temperature above ~77F won't make the ich life cycle go any faster than 3 days.

thanks for the information. the ~77F was new to me, and I like it since I don't want to raise the temp too high to further stress the fish.

 

[ruincccc]

QT is not just about keeping new diseases out.
Your tank may still be infected with some agent your fish previously had, something that your old fish are now immune to, but new fish are acutely susceptible to.
If you had ick previously, there may be inert cysts waiting in the substrate, all it takes is one.
As kno4te said, all new fish should be Q.T.ed, but if this continues to happen when fish are added to an old tank, I would suspect something latent in it.
Many diseases can go dormant, until the perfect opportunity arrives. It is possible for ick to be among those.
I believe Ick is one, as is Columnaris and many others.

agreed. the baby pbs were actually put in the quarantine tank, and was observed to have ich a few days after with the 82F water they were in. I'm pretty sure the ich came with the new fish, as the quarantine tank was bare bottom and hadn't housed fish since quite a while ago.

what frustrated me was the fish didn't handle the heat/salt treatment well, and eventually all 3 died.

 

[ruincccc]

If ich develops try malachite green at 1/2 the dosage it states on bottle on day 1 then repeat same treatment on day 2. Keep tank temp at 80 degrees and monitor fish.

I have previously used ParaGuard and Ich-X for other occurrences, but will look into malachite green. any particular brand/product to recommend? a quick Google search has yield Kordon Malachite Green.

 

[aussieman57]

I have previously used ParaGuard and Ich-X for other occurrences, but will look into malachite green. any particular brand/product to recommend? a quick Google search has yield Kordon Malachite Green.

That's the one I have used with good results. Forgot to mention that I repeat the dosage I mentioned before for 4 days. Usually clears by then if cai=ught early enough.