How to prevent a back flow on this...

[fourty2]

Bigger check valves may just cause more head pressure and slow you down. I always locate my returns high in the tank, make sure my sump can handle some extra water but ALSO put at least two check valves in it too.

I don't get that last one...

on my system i dont use any check valves,as long as you have a hole in the return pipes,above the water level of the main tank and the little drips that come from the holes can access back to the water you will never get a back syphon....

 

[aquatic_wonders]

My idea was to drill a small hole on the PVC return pipe that is located on the overflow box the pipe that handles the return of to the tank hey bro calm why not post a picture of the thing I'm talking about I'm not sure it's going to work that's the reason I want to know too.

 

[jlnguyen74]

basically, you put a hole in the return line near the water level, so once the water siphons to that point air enters the tube and the siphon is broke and it stops

the only thing i can think of is making a small hole in the water outlet pipe,above the main tank water line...so if the pumps fail you wont have a vacuum so no back syphoning....cant really explained very well what i mean,hopefully you can understand my ramble.....

My idea was to drill a small hole on the PVC return pipe that is located on the overflow box the pipe that handles the return of to the tank hey bro calm why not post a picture of the thing I'm talking about I'm not sure it's going to work that's the reason I want to know too.

Can u just drill a hole on the pvc pipe that connects the spout or outlet pipe which is loctaed on the overflow box?

Don't bother to drill the hole... None of the method above works. Basically, the water stop draining into your sump once the water level in the tank flush with the bottom of the grid line cut on the overflow box. However, the nozzle was drilled and installed below it, so the water will continue to drain into your sump through the nozzle and return line until the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the nozzle only work when the hole expose from the water, which only happens when the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the return PVC inside the overflow box will make the water drain faster to your sump, because the water will come out from the hose you drill into the box and drain to the sump, plus the water will continue to drain in your return line until the water level in your tank flush with the nozzle. So, either a check valve, a huge sump that can contains all that water, or add more loc line and bent the hose up as high as the grid of the overflow box.

 

[Calmwaters]

Don't bother to drill the hole... None of the method above works. Basically, the water stop draining into your sump once the water level in the tank flush with the bottom of the grid line cut on the overflow box. However, the nozzle was drilled and installed below it, so the water will continue to drain into your sump through the nozzle and return line until the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the nozzle only work when the hole expose from the water, which only happens when the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the return PVC inside the overflow box will make the water drain faster to your sump, because the water will come out from the hose you drill into the box and drain to the sump, plus the water will continue to drain in your return line until the water level in your tank flush with the nozzle. So, either a check valve, a huge sump that can contains all that water, or add more loc line and bent the hose up as high as the grid of the overflow box.

Now that was a good answer.

 

[frnchjeep]

Don't bother to drill the hole... None of the method above works. Basically, the water stop draining into your sump once the water level in the tank flush with the bottom of the grid line cut on the overflow box. However, the nozzle was drilled and installed below it, so the water will continue to drain into your sump through the nozzle and return line until the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the nozzle only work when the hole expose from the water, which only happens when the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the return PVC inside the overflow box will make the water drain faster to your sump, because the water will come out from the hose you drill into the box and drain to the sump, plus the water will continue to drain in your return line until the water level in your tank flush with the nozzle. So, either a check valve, a huge sump that can contains all that water, or add more loc line and bent the hose up as high as the grid of the overflow box.

uuummmm yeaaahhh......

The return pipe has a 90* fitting at the very top. Like everyone else said, DRILL A 3/16 HOLE IN THE CROTCH OF THE 90 AND FORGET ABOUT IT! This method DOES WORK and is used by every tank manufacturer that builds overflows. That hole is the ONLY guarantee that the sump won't flood when the pump is shut off. If you just put the return above the grid, a fish could bump it, you could bump it and not notice, etc. putting the nozzle lower than the water line. You wouldn't find out until it is too late. Check valves aren't 100% reliable either because when they get older, they will stick open, especially in fishtank plumbing where gunk builds up in the pipes.

 

[dr_sudz]

If you don't drill the return it will just drain the tank. Even if you have a "reverse drip loop", it will drain until the return is sucking air. Just think of how you do water changes, no air only sucking. Just drill the return where you want you water to stop or you will have a big mess. Forget the check valve, its a waste of money. They are also not 100% reliable and can leak, given enough time could flood your room.

 

[fourty2]

Don't bother to drill the hole... None of the method above works. Basically, the water stop draining into your sump once the water level in the tank flush with the bottom of the grid line cut on the overflow box. However, the nozzle was drilled and installed below it, so the water will continue to drain into your sump through the nozzle and return line until the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the nozzle only work when the hole expose from the water, which only happens when the water level flush with the nozzle. Drilling on the return PVC inside the overflow box will make the water drain faster to your sump, because the water will come out from the hose you drill into the box and drain to the sump, plus the water will continue to drain in your return line until the water level in your tank flush with the nozzle. So, either a check valve, a huge sump that can contains all that water, or add more loc line and bent the hose up as high as the grid of the overflow box.

PMSL