How to reduce humidity in fishroom
- Thread starter earthstones
- Start date
The ones that I have seen in action are from aquaticeco.com
They seem to do a great job. Perhaps Steve can chime in on this. I don't have a lot of first hand experience, but when I go into the LFS or his fish room it's never humid.
They seem to do a great job. Perhaps Steve can chime in on this. I don't have a lot of first hand experience, but when I go into the LFS or his fish room it's never humid.
Interesting-
I would love to hear his experiences with this product...
I run over 30 fish tanks in both of my cigar shops up here in Alaska and have to run humidifiers also-So the humnidity is pretty intense to say the least.....
I would love to hear his experiences with this product...
I run over 30 fish tanks in both of my cigar shops up here in Alaska and have to run humidifiers also-So the humnidity is pretty intense to say the least.....
rallysman;1225493; said:
Yep-For my cigars-But they are in a walk in humidor-But one still has to put up with extremely high humidity.....Then the air here alone is humid-Then to add all of the fish tanks into the equasion......One has a recipe for high humidity.....
My problem being is in my lounge for my customers-I have over 30 fish tanks in there for them to enjoy while smokeing their cigars...We just passed a no smokeing law up here and had to inclose a section of our building and make it a private lounge-Sincedoing so-the humidity is insane in there....
I run a dehumidifier in my basement fishroom and it is NOT enough !
It is still very humid ?
I only have 9 tanks up and running right now.(6 more empty spares)
I open the basement door and the humidity hits me in the face like going to an indoor swimming pool !
I have the dehumidifier running 24/7 also. ??????
Good Luck
It is still very humid ?
I only have 9 tanks up and running right now.(6 more empty spares)
I open the basement door and the humidity hits me in the face like going to an indoor swimming pool !
I have the dehumidifier running 24/7 also. ??????
Good Luck
From an HVAC service tech. The air exchangers mentioned previously will work as advertised. Are they big enough for your app? maybe.
You give a size of 20x12 ft (240 square feet)
Depending on the insulation level of this steel structure and budget, you may be better off installing a small ductless hvac system similar to this.http://mrslim.com/Products/Category.asp?ProductCategoryID=24
providing both heat in the winter and a/c in the summer.
If you only want dehumidification, most larger models sold at the big box stores have humidistats built in so you set the desired level just like the stat for your furnace a/c and it cycles accordingly to try and meet your needs.
Most are "portable", but I have seen them with permanent drain lines installed so you don't have to worry about emptying the water pan.
Most also give the recommended space size they can handle. For a fish room, double that recommendation.
As also noted, if you decrease the humidity, you will probably need more heat in the tank(s). Dry air has an affinity for water so more evaporation will take place. More evaporation will tend to have a cooling effect on the tank(s) and the space.
Your home a/c is really nothing more than a large dehumidifier/heat exchanger.
It makes us "feel" cool by removing moisture from the air. The air then removes moisture from us.
Believe it or not, I can make you hunt for a sweater in an 80 degree room, or sweat like a madman in a 65 degree room by manipulating humidity levels.
The mold/mildew issue should not be a problem until you get to around 70% or higher constantly.
Sorry for the length. hope it helps.
You give a size of 20x12 ft (240 square feet)
Depending on the insulation level of this steel structure and budget, you may be better off installing a small ductless hvac system similar to this.http://mrslim.com/Products/Category.asp?ProductCategoryID=24
providing both heat in the winter and a/c in the summer.
If you only want dehumidification, most larger models sold at the big box stores have humidistats built in so you set the desired level just like the stat for your furnace a/c and it cycles accordingly to try and meet your needs.
Most are "portable", but I have seen them with permanent drain lines installed so you don't have to worry about emptying the water pan.
Most also give the recommended space size they can handle. For a fish room, double that recommendation.
As also noted, if you decrease the humidity, you will probably need more heat in the tank(s). Dry air has an affinity for water so more evaporation will take place. More evaporation will tend to have a cooling effect on the tank(s) and the space.
Your home a/c is really nothing more than a large dehumidifier/heat exchanger.
It makes us "feel" cool by removing moisture from the air. The air then removes moisture from us.
Believe it or not, I can make you hunt for a sweater in an 80 degree room, or sweat like a madman in a 65 degree room by manipulating humidity levels.
The mold/mildew issue should not be a problem until you get to around 70% or higher constantly.
Sorry for the length. hope it helps.
ddyerfamily;1225535; said:
What to you is "very humid"?
10% change in humidity can feel drastic from room to room.
If your main living space is at say 50%, and the basement room is at 60%, you will definately feel the difference. Even more so if the air is stagnant.
Just because the machine runs "24/7" does not mean anything. Some are manual units that have to be turned on and off.
If it won't bring down the humidity to your liking, you need a larger unit that is rated for more square footage. If you sized it for the room initially, it's too small. The square footage recommedations advertised are typically for "normal" situations. Large fish rooms with lots of water surface area are not the norm.
