Hey just putting this out there to see if anyone has had the same issue or knows what I can do to solve it…
I recently bought the Hygger 800w titanium heater. This model turns on in full power mode, then turns off once the desired temp is reached. Once the temp goes down, the heater turns back on in “eco mode” to help save power.
Once in eco mode, all LED lights on that circuit flicker just slightly enough to notice.
fearing I had too much draw on a single circuit, I had an electrician come out and he upgraded my breaker switch from a 15amp to a 20.
He tested the current with all the house lights, and all the tank pumps running which only read 10 amps. Well below my 20.
so I unplugged the entire tank, except the heater, and once it went back into eco mode, the lights began to flicker again. The current was tested and it was only drawing 2 amps with just the heater on.
To ele mínate suspicions of faulty wiring or dimmer switches, I ran an extension cord to an upstairs hallway outlet. Once the heater went back into eco mode, the lights in that hallway started to flicker.
The electrician determined it wasn’t an electrical issue, rather a frequency problem with the heater and the LEDs. Similar to how remote control cars would interfere with each other when you had two similar frequencies.
His boss, whom I have no contact with, gave me a couple options:
run a heater without eco mode (hygger doesn’t have any at this size), run a dedicated circuit for the heater ($300+ to run the wiring and switch/outlet), or purchase an “isolator plug” from an electronics store which he described as the same concept as a resistor in an LED car headlight. Then I can plug the heater into that to balance the load and keep the LEDs from flickering. Additionally it could also work to keep that frequency dedicated to that plug so it wouldn’t interfere with the lighting in the house.
After some searching online, I haven’t been able to find anything to fit this application other than the anti hum plugs. Could this be what he was referring to?
I have not reached out to hygger on the issue yet because I have another one of the same model coming and wanted to test that one out before considering this one a dud.
thanks for reading this far and for any assistance you can provide. I’ll send updates as they come to help anyone else with this issue.
I recently bought the Hygger 800w titanium heater. This model turns on in full power mode, then turns off once the desired temp is reached. Once the temp goes down, the heater turns back on in “eco mode” to help save power.
Once in eco mode, all LED lights on that circuit flicker just slightly enough to notice.
fearing I had too much draw on a single circuit, I had an electrician come out and he upgraded my breaker switch from a 15amp to a 20.
He tested the current with all the house lights, and all the tank pumps running which only read 10 amps. Well below my 20.
so I unplugged the entire tank, except the heater, and once it went back into eco mode, the lights began to flicker again. The current was tested and it was only drawing 2 amps with just the heater on.
To ele mínate suspicions of faulty wiring or dimmer switches, I ran an extension cord to an upstairs hallway outlet. Once the heater went back into eco mode, the lights in that hallway started to flicker.
The electrician determined it wasn’t an electrical issue, rather a frequency problem with the heater and the LEDs. Similar to how remote control cars would interfere with each other when you had two similar frequencies.
His boss, whom I have no contact with, gave me a couple options:
run a heater without eco mode (hygger doesn’t have any at this size), run a dedicated circuit for the heater ($300+ to run the wiring and switch/outlet), or purchase an “isolator plug” from an electronics store which he described as the same concept as a resistor in an LED car headlight. Then I can plug the heater into that to balance the load and keep the LEDs from flickering. Additionally it could also work to keep that frequency dedicated to that plug so it wouldn’t interfere with the lighting in the house.
After some searching online, I haven’t been able to find anything to fit this application other than the anti hum plugs. Could this be what he was referring to?
I have not reached out to hygger on the issue yet because I have another one of the same model coming and wanted to test that one out before considering this one a dud.
thanks for reading this far and for any assistance you can provide. I’ll send updates as they come to help anyone else with this issue.
