3 might be pushing it in a 6x2x2, life time. I recommend growing them out and pay attention to their interaction, and I would suggest having a back up plan for the ones that are too aggressive or aren’t working out. Have fun!
I’m thinking of changing to oscars….help!
- Thread starter Chrislisk
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3 might be pushing it in a 6x2x2, life time. I recommend growing them out and pay attention to their interaction, and I would suggest having a back up plan for the ones that are too aggressive or aren’t working out. Have fun!
Ok I think once my big tank is empty and all the Africans sold…..which should be in the next 2 weeks I will add all 3. Grow them out a bit and see what happens. I’ll shift one out or sell whichever one is getting pushed out or even 2. At least I guess I can choose. How long to go before the 3 need sorting out do u think? If they are are together in my 500 litre
The three might get on well great, which is good for them, not so much for you, because your water change schedule will be manic! The bio load will be substantial.
Then again one might get picked on, or two may pair up, leaving the third surplus to requirements. You'll have to monitor their behaviour closely before deciding to re-home one.
One very important aspect to be aware of is that those fish will grow fast and your bio load will increase literally week on week. Test your water regularly to make sure you are keeping on top of your parameters and adjust your water change schedule accordingly.
I checked my water parameters today and the PH sits at around 7.5 and the water hardness is 16. Are these parameters in an acceptable bracket for my new oscars. They were raised from what I know on tap water in London but no idea what that is.
from what I’ve read it’s at the higher end of acceptable hardness for them but not bad. Just checking with everyone here.
from what I’ve read it’s at the higher end of acceptable hardness for them but not bad. Just checking with everyone here.
That is the upper end of tolerance, so.... to avoid HITH and other chronic diseases that plague oscars over time in had water, (because they have not evolved immunity to the bacteria found in that hard, mineral rich, water).
Keeping nitrates low (high nitrates in combination with hard water can be a stressful situation for soft water species) by doing water changes that hold nitrate in the <10ppm may be needed. And ramped up, to keep up with waste, as they grow.
I usually change over 100% of the tanks water per week, in 30-40% increments for large cichlids, and use a planted sump, to help control nitrate.
Your rift lake Africans are naturally immune and adapted to the soup that is hard water, and... put out considerably less waste due to their smaller size, and food requirements, than oscars that have evolved over millennia in a totally different environment.
One other factor that may help, is the additions of tannins, which are antibacterial, by the use of peat moss, Rooibos tea, or commercial additives that stain your water a slight tea color.
Ok this is really helpful. I’ve just tested my snakehead tank and it’s at 13. I have a massive piece of wood in her tank plus I add instant Amazon every now and then, also lots of Indian almond leaves. Clearlg this has had an impact……should I start doing the same with the Oscars?
I’m reading conflicting things about water flow and if the Oscars like it. I run 2 fx6s plus a wave maker at the surface for my Africans, obviously the 2 FX6s will remain but do I still need the wave maker? Or would the Oscars prefer an air pump? Some places I read they love high flow and other places say they hate it.
When you say 13 or 16, what is the unit?
In the U.S. companies like Culligan, and in some places water hardness is often measured in grains, where @ 2 grains soft, 7 grains being moderately hard, 12grains very hard. (this is much like the pH scale), but does not always coincide
5 to 7 or less is adequate for oscars. 8 to 10 perfect for Rift lake Africans, 2-3 perfect for Cardinal tetras, or other black water species
In U.S. labs, hardness is often measured in m/L, with 100m/L as fairly soft, 150 moderately hard, 300 and above very hard
In Europe, and for many salt water keepers hardness in sometimes measured as GH (general Hardness) and CH (calcium Hardness), 0mg/L or ppm as soft,
80 to 100 ppm as moderately hard, 180ppm as very hard.
unless we know how the units are being stated, its difficult to know meaning.
Some people will cavalierly say but most fish can survive just about anything!
But is it just about survive, or do we want our fish to actually thrive.
In the U.S. companies like Culligan, and in some places water hardness is often measured in grains, where @ 2 grains soft, 7 grains being moderately hard, 12grains very hard. (this is much like the pH scale), but does not always coincide
5 to 7 or less is adequate for oscars. 8 to 10 perfect for Rift lake Africans, 2-3 perfect for Cardinal tetras, or other black water species
In U.S. labs, hardness is often measured in m/L, with 100m/L as fairly soft, 150 moderately hard, 300 and above very hard
In Europe, and for many salt water keepers hardness in sometimes measured as GH (general Hardness) and CH (calcium Hardness), 0mg/L or ppm as soft,
80 to 100 ppm as moderately hard, 180ppm as very hard.
unless we know how the units are being stated, its difficult to know meaning.
Some people will cavalierly say but most fish can survive just about anything!
But is it just about survive, or do we want our fish to actually thrive.
