Ich or something else?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
curious why you think large water changes be bad? I do fin level on all my tanks every week. I have 5 tanks. largest 180, smallest a 40.
 
I do highly suggest you get a API Master fresh water test kit. 17 bucks or so on amazon, test strips are notoriously bad for being accurate. great for a hot tub, bad for a fish tank.
 
What good would come out of doing larger water changes? There is no ammonia in my tank and the only thing that would come out of doing larger water changes would be reducing nitrates, along with possibly exposing my fish to more chloramines. My nitrates are within reasonable levels, so I see no reason the take that risk.
 
I have 2 different kind of test strips and both of them test the same, but I do agree they aren't the most accurate for water testing.
 
you have my advice from what I am understanding, in my world large and often water changes need to happen, larger stock to a small tank the more water changes need to happen. if you not have a water change system such as a python and doing buckets. please get one. full water change on a 45 take you maybe 35 minutes, and no buckets to hall.
 
I hate to tell you that it may be too late to save your CL if the white spots are ick or velvets. It doesn't matter which one it is as both are protozoan disease. CL is very vulnerable to ick and once infected, ick spread rapidly. Salt is too mild treatment and works too slowly to save CL. Heat won't kill ick, just speed up the ick life cycle so salt will work a little faster. Having lost many CLs to ick, I found the only treatment that works is to apply half dosage malachite green as soon as white spots show up in CL.
 
These clown loaches have had ich once already since I had them. I got them from petsmart so it was likely they were going to have it. All I did was raise the temp before and it cured them. Increased temp does speed up the life cycle, but after 86 degrees it prevents the ich from reproducing. That's the way I understand it anyways. But the spots haven't even disappeared at all, which should happen whether or no the treatment is working. It just seems to me as though this is something different.
 
I agree with the Malachite green treatment at half dose, triple sulfa added to the treatment will help buffer the effects of the MG and also help fight any secondary infection. i think this may be your best option at this point. Quick cure which is a combination of Malachite Green and Formalin can also be used with Triple sulfa. Malachite is more toxic in lower Ph environments so if your water is 7 or above this treatment option is a viable choice. GL.
 
Follow the sticky in the health and disease forum. I stopped feeding once I saw the first signs of ich. Changed the water immediately and upped the temperature and dosed the tank with the proper amount of salt directed in the sticky. After about 8 days all white spots were gone, but continues treatments a few more day as per instructions. I had plenty of loaches in the tank and all fish recovered. Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com