Hopefully. Do you have any idea why the pike is the only fish getting it?bigspizz;1244572; said:
ICH!!!
- Thread starter HerCrenVie
- Start date
Its a small enough tank you might could just add some NOX ICH, or some other type of Ich treatment. I'd keep that as a last resort though. If it doesn't get better in two days, up the salt about two or three more tablespoons and wait one day. Hopefully by then it should be over with.
Keep changing water also to remove the free swimming ick. When you up the temp it speeds up their life and makes it to where they rapidly evolve and hopefully miss the chance to reproduce and lay another round of eggs. Keep those changes rolling....
You change the water it removes the meds and salt...kinda defeats the purpose. Unless for every 5 gallons of water you take out you put the same amount of salt and water back in. That way it should stay constant. So for every five gallons of water you take out, add two tablespoons of salt when you put it back in.
Peanut_Power;1244630; said:
You got it! When you top off no salt when you do a change of course replace salt.....The heater is the most important part of this however.....Turn the heat up in the room full blast if you are in charge of power usage....
I pretty routinely heat tanks up to 88-90 F when treating ick. Salt will help a little, but the concentrations you are using are not enough to kill free-swimming parasites. If you are not heating the tank yet you are doing very little to fight off infection. Heat is the key.
Several small water changes daily will help immensely, being sure to vaccuum off the bottom (in an attempt to physically remove free-swimming parasites). An important key to remember in treating for ich is that the majority of infestation is not seen - it is in the gills. Thus the critical importance of getting as much oxygen into the water as possible. Each "breath" the fish take while infected garners them less oxygen than while uninfected. Be very cautious about feeding heavily while they are suffering from ich, as heavily fed fish will require roughly 50% more oxygen into their circulatory system than unfed ones. Does this mean you shouldn't feed them? No. Just don't feed them heavily!
I would recommend starting a course of medication. Most pikes tolerate malachite green/formalin medicines extremely well.
Then again, as you are a Man United fan, I wish to say extremely nasty things to you. Go Manchester City!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No 1st place for you red devils this week
Several small water changes daily will help immensely, being sure to vaccuum off the bottom (in an attempt to physically remove free-swimming parasites). An important key to remember in treating for ich is that the majority of infestation is not seen - it is in the gills. Thus the critical importance of getting as much oxygen into the water as possible. Each "breath" the fish take while infected garners them less oxygen than while uninfected. Be very cautious about feeding heavily while they are suffering from ich, as heavily fed fish will require roughly 50% more oxygen into their circulatory system than unfed ones. Does this mean you shouldn't feed them? No. Just don't feed them heavily!
I would recommend starting a course of medication. Most pikes tolerate malachite green/formalin medicines extremely well.
Then again, as you are a Man United fan, I wish to say extremely nasty things to you. Go Manchester City!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No 1st place for you red devils this week
I'll definitely feed less from now on. No wonder my pike is the only one breathing heavily. It's so contradictory - you said heat is the key, but increasing the temperature will certainly lower oxygen levels, and you also said the water should be as well aerated as possible. As for the medication part, yes, I started treating the tank with Flavine/Acriflavine this afternoon. I'm using this and not methylene blue or malachite green because it is said to be harmless to beneficial bacteria, and the brand is pretty decent. However, the bottle itself also calls Flavine "a mild bacticide and fungicide". It certainly does seem mild to me, considering I followed the dosage (in fact I over-dosed slightly) and yet there hasn't been any visible improvement in the pike's condition. Do you think I should use a stronger chemical? I don't want to ruin the nitrogen cycle in my tank though.andregurov;1245235; said:I pretty routinely heat tanks up to 88-90 F when treating ick. Salt will help a little, but the concentrations you are using are not enough to kill free-swimming parasites. If you are not heating the tank yet you are doing very little to fight off infection. Heat is the key.
Several small water changes daily will help immensely, being sure to vaccuum off the bottom (in an attempt to physically remove free-swimming parasites). An important key to remember in treating for ich is that the majority of infestation is not seen - it is in the gills. Thus the critical importance of getting as much oxygen into the water as possible. Each "breath" the fish take while infected garners them less oxygen than while uninfected. Be very cautious about feeding heavily while they are suffering from ich, as heavily fed fish will require roughly 50% more oxygen into their circulatory system than unfed ones. Does this mean you shouldn't feed them? No. Just don't feed them heavily!
I would recommend starting a course of medication. Most pikes tolerate malachite green/formalin medicines extremely well.
Then again, as you are a Man United fan, I wish to say extremely nasty things to you. Go Manchester City!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No 1st place for you red devils this week
You must be careful with Malachite Green because if you have catfish or other scaless fish it will damage there skin or even kill them. Even at half doses as stated on bottles I have seen it damage and eat the fins away.
Did not know if you had 1, just a precaution.
Did not know if you had 1, just a precaution.
