So, I spotted it last weds and jacked the the temp to 88ish. I lost the one clown loach that had it the worst. There are no signs of it now. How long should I keep the temp up?
ICH!!!!
- Thread starter naten
- Start date
did you add salts and do frequent water changes? if not itll be back again its just gonna repeat the cycle until its killed off next time you see it bump the temps high, i wouldnt do 88 depending on your fish add salts then wait a day or 2 and do a water change and repeat if needed
I have done 70% wc every day. Added salt the first couple of days. There are 2 airstones for O2 bc of the high temp. JD 2 1/2in, Con 2 1/2 in, Jag 2 1/4 in, 3 2in CL's
I'm currently in the same boat as you. Have had the temp at 86 degrees for 4 days now w/ salt added.
Why is it too high if the fish are not stressed? From what I have read 84 only speeds up the life cycle, while if it isn't temp resistant ich 88 will kill it.
Well, you lost one loach probably because the temp is too high. Please read http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168667. This topic has been covered. Good luck.
I lost a loach bc the fish was sick. All other fish are acting normally now, swimming, eating, not labored breathing. I was looking for friendly advice from non judgmental people.Sorry that I didn't look into the stickies. Feel free to not read any of my posts if it's too much trouble for you.
Here's the article that I read about 88 being ok. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
The second approach is to actually destroy the organism with heat, and can be combined with the salt treatment below, but not with meds. The data I studied (including a report by the Southern Regional Aquaculture Center, which is currently archived here) suggests that most strains of Ich cannot reproduce at temperatures above 85�F. To use this treatment approach, slowly (no more than 1 or 2 degrees per hour) raise the temperature to 86�F, while maintaining strong continuous surface agitation to oxygenate the water. This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures. (This is why meds should not be used in conjunction with high temp � most Ich treatment products also reduce oxygen levels. Less available oxygen, combined with the respiration difficulties an infected fish is already faced with, could be fatal.) You can angle powerheads up toward the surface, or lower your water level to get a little extra splash from your filter return. As with any treatment, observe your fish closely for signs of stress (labored breathing, erratic behavior) and reduce the temperature slowly if necessary. (A note to the wary; my Malawi haps and clown loaches endured a temperature of 88�F for 10 days with apparent ease � I never detected the slightest hint of distress � and the Ich was completely wiped out. One article that I read suggests the temperature be raised to 90�F!)
Here's the article that I read about 88 being ok. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
The second approach is to actually destroy the organism with heat, and can be combined with the salt treatment below, but not with meds. The data I studied (including a report by the Southern Regional Aquaculture Center, which is currently archived here) suggests that most strains of Ich cannot reproduce at temperatures above 85�F. To use this treatment approach, slowly (no more than 1 or 2 degrees per hour) raise the temperature to 86�F, while maintaining strong continuous surface agitation to oxygenate the water. This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures. (This is why meds should not be used in conjunction with high temp � most Ich treatment products also reduce oxygen levels. Less available oxygen, combined with the respiration difficulties an infected fish is already faced with, could be fatal.) You can angle powerheads up toward the surface, or lower your water level to get a little extra splash from your filter return. As with any treatment, observe your fish closely for signs of stress (labored breathing, erratic behavior) and reduce the temperature slowly if necessary. (A note to the wary; my Malawi haps and clown loaches endured a temperature of 88�F for 10 days with apparent ease � I never detected the slightest hint of distress � and the Ich was completely wiped out. One article that I read suggests the temperature be raised to 90�F!)