Ichity Ich

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If the treatment continues until there is no more salt in the tank, then how do I know when it stops? Or does it matter?

The fifth day (when I start to lower my temp) should I do a massive water change?
 
albirdy;1947936; said:
If the treatment continues until there is no more salt in the tank, then how do I know when it stops? Or does it matter?

The fifth day (when I start to lower my temp) should I do a massive water change?

No, it doesn't matter, the fish could live forever in water with that small amount of salt. However, if you stop adding salt with water changes, eventually all of the salt will be removed. On the fifth day, you should do a water change and add salt, then start to lower the temperature on the sixth day. When you start lowering the temp, I would wait one week to do a water change so that the salt stays in the tank at the same level. That would be 12 full days of salt treatment, then when you do the water changes, the concentration of salt will gradually be decreased.
 
Excellent info I used it a few weeks ago on a case of ich and it worked beautifully it is the first time ever I didnt lose a singe fish to ich and its all thanks to the great support I got from MFK ( I cant remember who told me to use the salt and heat method but its common treatment on here) a question though is it a good idea to add salt with each water change after this is done? can it do any harm? are there any fish that you need to avoid using salt treatment with? thanks in advance
 
Some catfish are sensitive to salt. Cories and brochis are fine with 1 tsp. per 5 gallons as long as it is thoroughly dissolved before adding. Other scaleless fish may be sensitive, along with some plants.
 
dmed, again i say: you are awesome. i went to petco today, and told them the treatment process i was doing (the one you recommended). the guy started going off about carbon, weeks-long treatment, medication. he even had the nerve to laugh a little when i told him i was changing my water daily during the treatment. it's funny how the fish that screwed me was the one under his care. i hate petco. i heart dmed and mfk.
 
albirdy;1949094; said:
dmed, again i say: you are awesome. i went to petco today, and told them the treatment process i was doing (the one you recommended). the guy started going off about carbon, weeks-long treatment, medication. he even had the nerve to laugh a little when i told him i was changing my water daily during the treatment. it's funny how the fish that screwed me was the one under his care. i hate petco. i heart dmed and mfk.

The entire reason that Petco exists is to sell you things. Petco doesn't want to sell you salt, because salt is cheap and it works, and it does not lead you down a path that will result in more purchases. Petco also doesn't want to give you good advice, because getting good advice means you won't get caught up in trial and error and buy a bunch of medications from them. I apologize in advance if there is someone on the forum who works there, but Petco is GLAD that you have ich, because then you will run to them and buy a lot of stuff. Petco wants to sell you copper (so you will need new fish) or malachite green (so you will need a whole new tank).

Please remember to be patient, around day 3 the fish are going to have MORE white spots than they did before. Remember that this means the parasite is nearing the part of its life cycle when it can be killed by the salt. Don't forget the water changes - changing 50% of the water will physicially eliminate 50% of the free-swimming ich.
 
Dmed, or any other potential fish gurus ;P
so... I am worried about the ammonia levels in my tank. today i did the changes like you were saying. but my ammonia read that it was .5, and i noticed the color in my rummy-nose beginning to fade a bit, they also looked a bit stressed. I DID change the mechanical filter for my aquaclear 50. should i put the old mech.filter back in? Or just wait. this is NOT due to the water changes though, correct?

thanks for the clarity!
 
most likely, the ammonia spike is because you replaced the mechanical filter media. It often acts as biomedia, as well. there is no way (that I know of) that a water change can cause an ammonia spike. if you still have the old filter media (and it is at least moist still) I'd recommend you put it back, or at least put it in the filter reservoir behind the new media.
 
albirdy;1949715; said:
Dmed, or any other potential fish gurus ;P
so... I am worried about the ammonia levels in my tank. today i did the changes like you were saying. but my ammonia read that it was .5, and i noticed the color in my rummy-nose beginning to fade a bit, they also looked a bit stressed. I DID change the mechanical filter for my aquaclear 50. should i put the old mech.filter back in? Or just wait. this is NOT due to the water changes though, correct?

thanks for the clarity!

NO, it is not from the water changes, and it is not from the salt. These are the possibilities:

1. Biofilter suffering because of changing mechanical filter. As long as you are also using bioballs/ceramic rings or equivalent, the bacteria can double numbers in 24 hours so this should not be a persistent problem. Without a source of ammonia (fish), the bacteria in the old mechanical filter will be dead anyway, so there is no benefit in putting it back in.

2. Medication or other toxin was added to the tank which killed the biofilter. Hopefully this is not the case.

3. High temperature is affecting biofilter. What is the temp. in your tank and how reliable to you believe that your thermometer is?

4. There is a dead fish or a large amount of decaying food in the tank.

5. Your tap water contains chloramine and you are using an ammonia test that can not differentiate free ammonia and ionized ammonia. If your water contains chloramine, you must use a conditioner that detoxifies chloramine. Please tell us what water conditioner you use. Do you know if your tap water contains chloramine? If not, please tell us what city you live in and I will try to find out for you. Also, what test kit are you using?

Regardless of what the people at Petco might tell you, water changes do not cause high ammonia levels.

It's important to rectify this situation fast, because the increased temp in the tank makes the ammonia more toxic. Also, is it possible that the ammonia was elevated for a while? That could be what precipitated the ich outbreak. Luckily, you are already treating with SALT which will decrease nitrite toxicity as the ammonia is nitrified. What is the pH in your tank???

dmed
 
dmed;1949743; said:
Without a source of ammonia (fish), the bacteria in the old mechanical filter will be dead anyway, so there is no benefit in putting it back in.

depends on how long ago he took it out.
 
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