Identify algae and help prevent it?
- Thread starter TheMainer
- Start date
Hello; Here is a possible control method if the algae in only an issue on the substrate. During a water change vac out the algae covered sand. Have some cleaned sand ready to replace it. Then clean the algae covered sand to have it ready for the next water change.
I should rephrase. Algae in general won't vanish in an established tank, but the crazy rampant stuff and the diatoms will ease up a lot, if not vanish entirely, once a balance of plants to other algaes develops. It's especially visible in saltwater tanks, but it happens in freshwater ones as well.
Since there are thousands of species/types of algae, this is difficult. I had an entire text book called "The Algae of the Great Lake".
But anyway, when you pull it out, does it come out in slimy sheets?
Many true algae feel gritty to the touch, even though they look slimy.
I have a feeling it is cyanobacteria, not a true algae.
I would get it in only one or 2 tanks, out of maybe my total of 20 tanks.
It liked to cover pieces of wood, not only the substrate, and will sometimes blanket plants, so changing substrate would only be a temporaray fix, and may just come back.
For me, the only thing that worked, (I tried changing the light spectrum, more water changes, different filtration) was using a probiotic, pitting another bacteria against it, one that would out compete it.
I started adding Rid-X (yes the stuff you put in septic tanks) as a bio control, and watched it gradually melt away.
There is an entire sticky on its use in the disease section, it is also used to out compete pathogenic bacteria
The Use of Probiotics in Aquaculture
I also have a thread somewhere where I document my progress with photos
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/probiotic-experiment.544728/
But anyway, when you pull it out, does it come out in slimy sheets?
Many true algae feel gritty to the touch, even though they look slimy.
I have a feeling it is cyanobacteria, not a true algae.
I would get it in only one or 2 tanks, out of maybe my total of 20 tanks.
It liked to cover pieces of wood, not only the substrate, and will sometimes blanket plants, so changing substrate would only be a temporaray fix, and may just come back.
For me, the only thing that worked, (I tried changing the light spectrum, more water changes, different filtration) was using a probiotic, pitting another bacteria against it, one that would out compete it.
I started adding Rid-X (yes the stuff you put in septic tanks) as a bio control, and watched it gradually melt away.
There is an entire sticky on its use in the disease section, it is also used to out compete pathogenic bacteria
The Use of Probiotics in Aquaculture
I also have a thread somewhere where I document my progress with photos
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/probiotic-experiment.544728/
Since there are thousands of species/types of algae, this is difficult. I had an entire text book called "The Algae of the Great Lake".
But anyway, when you pull it out, does it come out in slimy sheets?
Many true algae feel gritty to the touch, even though they look slimy.
I have a feeling it is cyanobacteria, not a true algae.
I would get it in only one or 2 tanks, out of maybe my total of 20 tanks.
It liked to cover pieces of wood, not only the substrate, and will sometimes blanket plants, so changing substrate would only be a temporaray fix, and may just come back.
For me, the only thing that worked, (I tried changing the light spectrum, more water changes, different filtration) was using a probiotic, pitting another bacteria against it, one that would out compete it.
I started adding Rid-X (yes the stuff you put in septic tanks) as a bio control, and watched it gradually melt away.
There is an entire sticky on its use in the disease section, it is also used to out compete pathogenic bacteria
The Use of Probiotics in Aquaculture
I also have a thread somewhere where I document my progress with photos
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/probiotic-experiment.544728/
But anyway, when you pull it out, does it come out in slimy sheets?
Many true algae feel gritty to the touch, even though they look slimy.
I have a feeling it is cyanobacteria, not a true algae.
I would get it in only one or 2 tanks, out of maybe my total of 20 tanks.
It liked to cover pieces of wood, not only the substrate, and will sometimes blanket plants, so changing substrate would only be a temporaray fix, and may just come back.
For me, the only thing that worked, (I tried changing the light spectrum, more water changes, different filtration) was using a probiotic, pitting another bacteria against it, one that would out compete it.
I started adding Rid-X (yes the stuff you put in septic tanks) as a bio control, and watched it gradually melt away.
There is an entire sticky on its use in the disease section, it is also used to out compete pathogenic bacteria
The Use of Probiotics in Aquaculture
I also have a thread somewhere where I document my progress with photos
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/probiotic-experiment.544728/
I'd also give a +1 to a rid-x treatment and see what happens. I've done it in my 180 with good results.
Hello; I had the sheet algae in two of my tanks for the last couple of years. I think it was the cyanobacteria (cyb). Things that did not work were physical removal and the use of the antibiotic erythromycin (EM). To be a bit more clear the EM was effective short term.
I also tried introducing hydrogen peroxide, a method mentioned on this forum. There were not clear instructions about this method so I likely did it wrong. The working theory behind this being that the cyb cannot stand the extra oxygen. I could not see any results from adding the hydrogen peroxide near the cyb at a specific point. I did note that the cyb was not present on the back tank glass near a bubbler.
I also tried the Rid-X a couple of times. This was also not clear to me as to the best application practice. I would put a table spoon of the Rid-X in a small container of water and allow it to sit for a few hours. I would then pour the resulting solution thru a coffee filter to screen out the solids. I poured the liquid into aquariums and put the filtered solids in my septic tank. I only did this a few times. I may not have done it often enough, or not a strong enough amount, or some other poor proceedure. I will read thru the link, but any suggestions as to a good proceedure will be appreciated.
I have tried something different but it is too early to tell now so will save it for another post.
I also tried introducing hydrogen peroxide, a method mentioned on this forum. There were not clear instructions about this method so I likely did it wrong. The working theory behind this being that the cyb cannot stand the extra oxygen. I could not see any results from adding the hydrogen peroxide near the cyb at a specific point. I did note that the cyb was not present on the back tank glass near a bubbler.
I also tried the Rid-X a couple of times. This was also not clear to me as to the best application practice. I would put a table spoon of the Rid-X in a small container of water and allow it to sit for a few hours. I would then pour the resulting solution thru a coffee filter to screen out the solids. I poured the liquid into aquariums and put the filtered solids in my septic tank. I only did this a few times. I may not have done it often enough, or not a strong enough amount, or some other poor proceedure. I will read thru the link, but any suggestions as to a good proceedure will be appreciated.
I have tried something different but it is too early to tell now so will save it for another post.
