I'm a newbie at Discus, please help!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
mrquad;2399525; said:
i read it from a lot of source, that whenever you put a newly bought discus, it should be QT for at least 1 week or 2 weeks (correct me if i'm wrong)
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It doesn't matter if the fish is a discus or not. All fish still need to be quarantined for at least 3-4 weeks.
 
well I bought it at a lfs which I know well, the man who selled them to me gave them quarentine for at least one or two weeks before selling them, so that gives me thrust on adding them directly to my main tank. Thanks anyways for the info, I'll be up to that when I buy discus from someone I don't know!
 
Hello, I took some time yesterday to watch more closely at each one of the discus, I discover that the gold discus is only moving one of its gill plates, I'm thinking about gill flukes, what do you think? Any medication I should use? please help cuz' this is my favorite discus!!! :(:(:(
 
What are your water parameters right now, Robert?
 
ohh sorry, well water is soft, no amonia, no nitrites, and pH is around 7.4
 
Roberto G;2430753; said:
ohh sorry, well water is soft, no amonia, no nitrites, and pH is around 7.4
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Okay, what is your nitrate level? From your post, it does seem gill flukes judging from how the fish is breathing. Try flubendazole. Other alternatives are listed here.

Dactylogyridea
Symptoms:
Rubbing movements, rapid breathing, one gill is usually shut while using the other

Causes:
Poor water quality, stress and overpopulation will allow the gill flukes to reproduce quickly and the fish soon begins to rub over objects. If they are heavily infested, then they will stand under the surface breathing heavily. Adult fish usually can tolerate minor infestations but if infested heavily or severely stressed, they will eventually succumb to the gill flukes.

Dactylogyridea is an egg-laying gill fluke that is just the opposite of the Gyrodactylidea. They live mainly in the gills and can be visible with the naked eye as they reach 2-3 mm. Eggs fall to the bottom of the aquarium or vat. The fluke after it hatches eventually finds a host where it can attach itself.

Gill flukes have hooks that they use to attach themselves on the mucous membranes of the skin and gills of the fish thus injuring them. As a result, secondary infections such as fungi, protozoans and bacteria will appear and start to overtake the fish. Treatment must be done immediately to stop this situation from getting to the worse.

Treatment:
1. Formalin (It has been noted that this is not very effective against the eradication of fluke eggs.

2. Potassium Permanganate

3. Flubendazole-Noted to be very effective against the fluke eggs.

4. Praziquantel

5. Salt dips

6. Sera Mycopur

7. Sera Ectopur

8. Chloramine T
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7.4 isn't really that high. There are things far worse than that.
 
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