I'm back.. With Tig

[thebiggerthebetter]

Thanks a bunch man I will for now on, I don't think you were around last time I was posting on the site consistently. Im kind of panicked about keeping a Tig cuz its my first one and Ive heard they can be finicky so this definitely made me feel better. Have you ever fed yours night crawlers?

IME and from reading about that of others, tigs can be finicky or not. Again, chances appear to split roughly 50-50.

I struggle to think of an MFK type of fish that would refuse a nightcrawler or a fish that a nightcrawler wouldn't be good for. It's one of the best foods ever one can give their fish AFAIK. The drawback is the expense or labor intensity, when it comes to feeding large fish.

 

[thebiggerthebetter]

... As for diet, a varied diet is best but some tigs are better eaters than others. My current tig, about 16", I can not get to eat pellets to save my life. I have friends with tigs who eat pellets like there is no tomorrow...

Absolutely agree.

A personal striking example: Got 5 tigs from Manny C. (thanks, Manny!), ~2.5", about 3 months ago. Offered fish pieces and pellets. Three took all. Two - only fish. The three are the largest now for it, about 6"-8". The two are the smallest, about 4"-5".

 

[thebiggerthebetter]

Ok so little mini update. I just tested my water (API test kit) and came back with the following:

PH: 7.6
Ammonia: 0 (tube was clear after drops instead of yellow so I'm assuming zero)
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0

This all seems relatively good but all of a sudden my waters a tad cloudy... Thoughts?

I understand you're color blind.

But API test relies on subtle color differences. You will need to get someone to read your tests for yah. Or keep posting them here against the color chart with good lighting, good quality photographs.

Tigs occur in waters with widely ranging pH. 7.6 is no problem.

Cloudy phase is a part of cycling. Your tank's not cycled yet.

 

[thebiggerthebetter]

Haven't put any feeders in cuz I'm paranoid af about disease but I put some algae wafers in last night then took them out this morning to start some type of nitrogen cycle and reanimate the BB from the Bioballs and the quick start I put in my tank.. Does that sound about right?

You could use some more tender feeders, not "bullet-proof" gold fish or reasonably hardy rosy reds but fancy guppies, danios, mollys, etc.

But I'd not use live fish.

I'd use ammonia solution (medicinal, from say Walmart pharmacy) or throw in some pellets to rot. No problem with either way. Keep reading the tests until ammonia and nitrite are zero. By then nitrate should be non-zero.

One pro argument for the ammonia solution is that you will conveniently learn from your own experience what various ammonia concentrations look like on your API test and how well your BBs are taking care of it.

I'd not let nitrate climb over 20 ppm with a tig. Better yet keep it under 10 ppm, if your tap water allows (contains 0-5 ppm nitrate).

 

[thebiggerthebetter]

Ammonia test should not be clear. Zero ppm = yellow, without any hint of greenishness.

Typical cycling period is ~6 weeks. I'd not rush it - the most common way to kill one's fish is to be impatient. Jump starting may cut it by 1.5x or 2x. I'd recommend adding ammonia solution to produce say 4 ppm or higher ammonia concentration and then tracking the ammonia concentration, nitrite (should be non-zero at some point in cycling, then zero), and nitrate (may be zero at the start of cycling and then should be building up in the absence of water changes, which aren't needed during cycling).


Agree with Tig Phish again: I'd advise against messing with the pH. It is loaded with possibilities of making a mistake sooner or later. It requires attention and constant vigilance. Not worth it at all IMHO.

If the pH was like 8.5-9.0, then maybe... 7.6 is fine.

 

[arowanaryan]

Ammonia test should not be clear. Zero ppm = yellow, without any hint of greenishness.

Typical cycling period is ~6 weeks. I'd not rush it - the most common way to kill one's fish is to be impatient. Jump starting may cut it by 1.5x or 2x. I'd recommend adding ammonia solution to produce say 4 ppm or higher ammonia concentration and then tracking the ammonia concentration, nitrite (should be non-zero at some point in cycling, then zero), and nitrate (may be zero at the start of cycling and then should be building up in the absence of water changes, which aren't needed during cycling).


Agree with Tig Phish again: I'd advise against messing with the pH. It is loaded with possibilities of making a mistake sooner or later. It requires attention and constant vigilance. Not worth it at all IMHO.

If the pH was like 8.5-9.0, then maybe... 7.6 is fine.

Ok so I decided to wait a week and let it cycle before bring home the Tig. I had thrown in some Mollies to make it go quicker after I added some more old filter media from another tank and it seemed to work... The Tigrinus is now going to end up having a tank mate however.. It's going to be a surprise but pics are coming soon.