Is an Under gravel filter a good idea?
- Thread starter Cmb Mani
- Start date
Do you understand the concept of an undergravel filter? It cycles water through the gravel, turning your gravel into a giant piece of filter media. Your water may not look any cleaner, but all of the built up waste (ammonia) that would normally be under the gravel is cycled and finds its way to your main filter much quicker.
You need to be doing larger water changes. Especially if not only does your water get dirty quickly, but you own two Pacu. How big is the tank? How powerful are your powerheads? How many UG Plates? How many power heads?
A lot more information could be provided, to better understand your situation. Pacu's arent the cleanest fish out there...
A lot more information could be provided, to better understand your situation. Pacu's arent the cleanest fish out there...
Welcome to MFK!!!
UG filters can be an asset in an aquarium if set up correctly. It should never need to be "changed out". I've been setting up my UG filters according to recommendations made by Dr. Stephen Spotte back in the 70s.
When setting a UG filter up. Place a sheet of pond filter pad or bonded (1/2 blue, 1/2 white) filter material over the UG plate. The material needs to cover the entire plate.
Place your gravel over the pad.
The filter material provides 800 times the surface area of gravel alone to the system's bio-filtration capability. The material also prevents clogging and 'dead spots' at the UG plate slots. And, the filter material provides excellent anchoring points for aquarium plants.
Use powerheads at the lift tubes to get the best circulation throughout your system.
Weekly gravel washes can be done in the usual manner.
I had this system in a 240 gal with 17 Polypterus running for 2 years before having to tear the tank down to transfer (Navy). When I removed the gravel, the pond pad's white side was still white and there was zero sludge under the plates.
UG filters can be an asset in an aquarium if set up correctly. It should never need to be "changed out". I've been setting up my UG filters according to recommendations made by Dr. Stephen Spotte back in the 70s.
When setting a UG filter up. Place a sheet of pond filter pad or bonded (1/2 blue, 1/2 white) filter material over the UG plate. The material needs to cover the entire plate.
Place your gravel over the pad.
The filter material provides 800 times the surface area of gravel alone to the system's bio-filtration capability. The material also prevents clogging and 'dead spots' at the UG plate slots. And, the filter material provides excellent anchoring points for aquarium plants.
Use powerheads at the lift tubes to get the best circulation throughout your system.
Weekly gravel washes can be done in the usual manner.
I had this system in a 240 gal with 17 Polypterus running for 2 years before having to tear the tank down to transfer (Navy). When I removed the gravel, the pond pad's white side was still white and there was zero sludge under the plates.
Do you have the powerheads set up to push water down through the plates or to suck water up through the plates? In other words is it set up as a reverse flow ugf?
scrap the undergravel bro it's not a good mechanical filter esp for 2 pacus. a cannister would be much better in your situation.
UGFs are not intended to be mechanical filters. They're biological filters. Routine gravel washes will remove the large debris and aerobic bacteria will process the finer materials.
I've used UGFs in tandem with canisters to get the benefits of both processes.
I've used UGFs in tandem with canisters to get the benefits of both processes.
Pounder; I disagree. UG filters are expecially good for messy fish. As long as you have powerful enough powerheads to create good suction, and an adequate or oversived normal filter, your water will be much cleaner and more circulated than with anything else. I have 4 Pacu in a 125 (grow out) and with the UG, although the water would be much cleaner looking, the UG saves a lot of time with water changes because instead of waste just sitting at the bottom and breaking down, it finds its way to the aquaclear 110.
What an UG will also allow you to do is use a smaller large filter. The purpose of your main filter is to filter as much as it can, as quickly and efficiantly as possible. If you have a 125, you need around 700gph of movement going on. I have a 500gph hang-on with two 250 gph powerheads. One on each plate. Thats 1000 gph, and constantly moving water. Instead of 700 gph and only filtering the waste that has been kicked up.
What an UG will also allow you to do is use a smaller large filter. The purpose of your main filter is to filter as much as it can, as quickly and efficiantly as possible. If you have a 125, you need around 700gph of movement going on. I have a 500gph hang-on with two 250 gph powerheads. One on each plate. Thats 1000 gph, and constantly moving water. Instead of 700 gph and only filtering the waste that has been kicked up.
The UGF, pad, and gravel in my 240 provided the equivalent bio-filtration of a wet/dry filter with a 20 gallon bio-chamber.
Pad length 96" X width 24" X height (1" pad/1" substrate) 2"/231 = 19.95 gallons US.
That much beneficial filtration is difficult to scoff at.
Pad length 96" X width 24" X height (1" pad/1" substrate) 2"/231 = 19.95 gallons US.
That much beneficial filtration is difficult to scoff at.