Is this a crack in my tank?

[clm08k]

Hello,

I have a 180g acrylic tank on a solid wood stand and solid wood canopy.
I’ve noticed what almost looks like inner seams of the acrylic perhaps seperating?

Could someone please let me know what is happening and if it’s safe? If not, any next steps. All help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[wednesday13]

Def seam separation unfortunately… is the tank un level towards that front corner there? The wood canopy could be a factor also being heavy.

As for safety… if it was built with solvent (chances are it was) they usually dont just explode. It may let loose a bit and leak but in my experience it nothing like when a glass tank pops a seam so u have a bit more time to move fish, drain, and figure out ur next move. Ive personally ran a similiar looking seam for many years with no issues. I have also repaired/reinforced tanks with much less signs of stress.

You can repair/reinforce it with a piece of 1/2” square rod glued in with weld on solvent #3 or 4…#16 or the best option #40…. Or you can use #40 alone to create a fillet inside the seam. The 1st option can be done in place vertically. The 2nd option needs to be done on the ground with the tank tipped at a 45 degree angle to puddle the glue in the seam. Both methods can work well and are fairly “user friendly”…

My last resort for repairs like this are on the outside. You can get a strip of 1/4” acrylic 2”x24” and glue it on the outside of the tank covering the seam that way. This can also be done with solvent, #16 or #40.

Personally i think the fillet of #40 can look the nicest. Square rod can look good as well if ur clean with it. Being the front id almost just do the other side as well so it looked symmetrical but thats not necessary.

For starters you can lower ur water level to elevate some of the pressure as well as remove that heavy canopy until you decide what moves to make for the fish and repair.

This is nothing out of the norm for an older acrylic tank. Or even a new one. Things happen and they can be fixed. Its a fairly minor repair and the tank cant last another life time afterwards

 

[clm08k]

Def seam separation unfortunately… is the tank un level towards that front corner there? The wood canopy could be a factor also being heavy.

As for safety… if it was built with solvent (chances are it was) they usually dont just explode. It may let loose a bit and leak but in my experience it nothing like when a glass tank pops a seam so u have a bit more time to move fish, drain, and figure out ur next move. Ive personally ran a similiar looking seam for many years with no issues. I have also repaired/reinforced tanks with much less signs of stress.

You can repair/reinforce it with a piece of 1/2” square rod glued in with weld on solvent #3 or 4…#16 or the best option #40…. Or you can use #40 alone to create a fillet inside the seam. The 1st option can be done in place vertically. The 2nd option needs to be done on the ground with the tank tipped at a 45 degree angle to puddle the glue in the seam. Both methods can work well and are fairly “user friendly”…

My last resort for repairs like this are on the outside. You can get a strip of 1/4” acrylic 2”x24” and glue it on the outside of the tank covering the seam that way. This can also be done with solvent, #16 or #40.

Personally i think the fillet of #40 can look the nicest. Square rod can look good as well if ur clean with it. Being the front id almost just do the other side as well so it looked symmetrical but thats not necessary.

For starters you can lower ur water level to elevate some of the pressure as well as remove that heavy canopy until you decide what moves to make for the fish and repair.

This is nothing out of the norm for an older acrylic tank. Or even a new one. Things happen and they can be fixed. Its a fairly minor repair and the tank cant last another life time afterwards

Thank you so much for the prompt and detailed response! I also appreciated the reassurance that this can happen to any tank.

I’m going to look up the materials for the repairs. Is this the #40 weld-on solvent? : Weld-on 40
How long does the 1/2” square rod need to be? Square rod
Do you have any pictures/videos of what option 1 and 2 would look like? I’m assuming the square rod goes inside the tank? Outside? Additionally, tank has to be fully drained and dry to do these repairs then cure, right?

The only tank seam repair I’ve done was on my 55 a few years back. It’s already starting to fray cause it was definitely an amateur job . Apologies for all the questions, but I definitely appreciate your help. Conversely, if you are near Florida, I would be happy to commission you for help.

Here are some pics of the other seams I’m less concerned about. Do these need to be done too? Here are the ones on the front right and back right:

 

[wednesday13]

Thank you so much for the prompt and detailed response! I also appreciated the reassurance that this can happen to any tank.

I’m going to look up the materials for the repairs. Is this the #40 weld-on solvent? : Weld-on 40
How long does the 1/2” square rod need to be? Square rod
Do you have any pictures/videos of what option 1 and 2 would look like? I’m assuming the square rod goes inside the tank? Outside? Additionally, tank has to be fully drained and dry to do these repairs then cure, right?

The only tank seam repair I’ve done was on my 55 a few years back. It’s already starting to fray cause it was definitely an amateur job . Apologies for all the questions, but I definitely appreciate your help. Conversely, if you are near Florida, I would be happy to commission you for help.

Here are some pics of the other seams I’m less concerned about. Do these need to be done too? Here are the ones on the front right and back right:

View attachment 1563809

View attachment 1563810

View attachment 1563811

#40 is a 2 part epoxy that is basically acrylic itself. The other tank seams look good to me. Id do both the fronts just so it matches up for looks. For the square rod u want to run it the entire length of the seam on the inside. Ur basically making a new/additional seam all together so it will need to adhere to the top and bottom of the tank aswell so no water gets behind it to the old/original seam. Same thing with the tip/pour with #40. You need to do the whole seam not just over the bad area.

40 is pretty user friendly/full proof. The fumes are bad tho. If u have poor ventilation. Cant get the tank outside to work on or have family/children id opt for maybe using solvent or #16 and square rod. 40 is the strongest option. Each method has its pros and cons. Solvent is a skill in itself to get right. 16 is the weakest option but if ur good with it it can look good and last a lifetime as well.

Check out any local acrylic shops in ur area. They usually sell the glues and offer scrap pieces pretty cheap u can practice with. 40, although smelly… is probably the most full proof for not knowing what ur doing.

Theres a “sticky” in the DIY section here titled weld on 40… lots of pics and write ups ive done there . Feel free to ask more questions as well im usually pretty bored at work …