Is this considered a monster tank?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
This is going to be a sweet build to watch! Just thought it should be mentioned that a 72"x18"x24" is a 125. This thread is def helping me out since I'm doing pretty much the same thing


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Experiment397 said:
This is going to be a sweet build to watch! Just thought it should be mentioned that a 72"x18"x24" is a 125. This thread is def helping me out since I'm doing pretty much the same thing


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Yeah I wasn't even sure. It was posted on Craigslist as 'a 145 or 155' and the tank calc I used gave me 139g so I was just shooting for any equipment that can take care of a 135 or higher that way I'm overrated on filtration and heating and stuff.

It seems a lot of people are interested so when I get around to getting all the parts and stuff I'm definitely gonna make a new a thread with the build progress.

Thanks for the info about lighting. I'm following along with what you typed and can understand it but repeating it would be rough lol. I was leaning toward T5 lighting and still kind of am unless there is something else recommended (I would go halide if it was smarter).

Ive heard about "retro fit" kits for stuff like T5 but I don't know what it means. S it some sort of cheap fixture that I modify to take the bulbs I need to use or something? If anyone has any resources on any DIY lighting or cheap ways around it that would be great.

Either way, once I get on the right track with cash (I have to buy 2 filters and a heater for our smaller tanks first. About $180 before shipping) I'm gonna build the sump/fuge, get a basic lighting that will work for FOWLR (just to be able to start the tank), a RO/DI system, protein skimmer, and a refractometer and other testing equipment. So it will be quite the investment but I can't say I'm not completely pumped up about it.

Remember, if any of you have a RO/DI or some equipment like a protein skimmer that can handle this sze tank or higher I would love to work something out with you.
 
oscaroo said:
my biggest tank is 75 gallons. Is it monstorious? LOL
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lcujol said:
Lol I said the same thing I even put my 29g in front of my 55g and took a picture. Lol thought I had myself a monster tank.


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Nepherael said:
Yeah when we got our 55 I thought I was set then I decided a 75 was better because it went farther back. 'nah I'm good at 75' I said. Pssh not even close. I will say though that the investment required for some of the stuff to set this up and the price alone on a bigger tank than this 139g will probably keep me from ever going bigger than that..... Ya never know though XD
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Yes imo a 75 is a monster ONLY cuz u can fit one decent sized monster in it!

I thought all my setups (2x 55 1x75 1x90) were awesome then I decided to hit up MFK and seeing 1500 gallon ponds and 500gal tanks all day somewhat took away from the glory I thought I had lol. Either way awesome find and happy Sunday!

#1 S. Vettel
 
Nepherael said:
Ive heard about "retro fit" kits for stuff like T5 but I don't know what it means. S it some sort of cheap fixture that I modify to take the bulbs I need to use or something? If anyone has any resources on any DIY lighting or cheap ways around it that would be great.

Either way, once I get on the right track with cash (I have to buy 2 filters and a heater for our smaller tanks first. About $180 before shipping) I'm gonna build the sump/fuge, get a basic lighting that will work for FOWLR (just to be able to start the tank), a RO/DI system, protein skimmer, and a refractometer and other testing equipment. So it will be quite the investment but I can't say I'm not completely pumped up about it.

Remember, if any of you have a RO/DI or some equipment like a protein skimmer that can handle this sze tank or higher I would love to work something out with you.
Click to expand...

Now I'm gonna confuse you - LOL ... maybe...... PAR also stands for Parabalic Alumized Reflector - this is were you start for a retro fight. The T5. MH or LED connection bulbs don't work for squat without the proper refelector.

If your just doin FOWLR (which most reefers start with anyways) you don't need a $75 refractor , carbon can be used instead of a protien skimmer, Lighting is a non-issue, as is RO/DI water. After going thru the up's and downs with reef chemistry the best I can give you to focus on is stability of salinity and PH, then Nitrate management. You can add skimmers, switch to RO water, purchase better lighting after the tank is cycled and stable with fish thriving for numerous months 1st. The big expense upfront will be rocks + powerheads/pumps. You sould have at least 10x the volume of tank in waterflow - more is even better. To give you an example my 210 min. would be 2,100 gal per hr combine. Just my external pump that moves the water thru the sump is actually more. It's about 2,500 gph @ 5 ft' in hieght of plumbing. Add the powerheads, skimmer pump, and reactor pumps my total water movement per hr is 11,050 gph. Your tank should be a min. of 1,390 but better off at 6,000 t0 7,000 gph total combine flow - you ain't gettin' this from HOB's or cheap marineland powerheads. Purgien and Chem-pure are both tried a true chemical Nitrate management tools, might want to check up on them aswell. The fuge will most certainly help with both Nitrate + Po4 , your stocking habits are probably gonna determine which route you go if not employing both routes.
 
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