is this enough lighting?

[jcardona1]

^ No, that really isn't correct. In planted tanks, algae isn't caused by extra nutrients (like commonly believed), it's caused by too little nutrients. Here's why:

- Think of lighting as your gas pedal. This is your go-baby-go button.
- The more light you have, the faster you are forcing the plants to go through photosynthesis.
- Photosynthesis requires co2 and ferts
- So a faster rate of photosynthesis means you need more co2 and more ferts
- If you can't or don't provide enough co2/ferts to keep up with the plants demands, the plant suffers
- Healthy plants outcompete algae for available nutrients. So healthy and happy plants = no algae. Unhealthy plants = algae takeover
- Moral of the story? If you don't want to add co2 or ferts, cut back on the lighting
- Less lighting, slower rate of photosynthesis, and less demand on co2 and ferts.

It's a really simplistic explanation, but it works I think. And adding plants will make things worse. Think of it this way. Your plants are starving for co2 and ferts, which is why you see algae. If the plants you have are starving, what do you think adding more plants will do? Help, or harm the situation?

 

[EntoCraig]

Nailed it.

 

[Prometheus]

fantastic explanation! and now that i am faced with that choice, i think i would actually like to see about setting up a CO2 system rather than cut back on the lights, and then observe the difference that will make and decide then whether or not dosing with ferts, and in what quantity and quality, is appropriate.

about CO2 systems: back when i researched these i read that one of the major drawbacks to using a DIY system was the lack of a timed on/off regulator. the importance of the regulator on a timer is: if im not mistaken,
to turn the flow of co2 off at night...
because the lack of light stops photosynthesis which causes co2 to not be used
which leads to a build up of co2 in the tank
which causes a pH swing big enough to possibly hurt my fish.

is that correct?

not being able to afford a canister system i am faced with the DIY possibility. but not at the risk of hurting my fish. so do they make timed on/off switches for these things that i can buy and use on a DIY setup? keep in mind that with DIY the switch will need to redirect the flow of co2 to a secondary line that leads out my bedroom window or somewhere safe (to avoid a build up in my room which could hurt me) instead of simply stopping the flow altogether in order to prevent a pressure build up big enough to either (1) cause the setup to pop and make a mess everywhere or (2) actually not pop only to make to the morning when the switch comes back on, at which point it would cause an extremely high rate of immediate flow into the tank... which would also cause a pH swing and hurt my fish. (sorry for the run on sentence) so what are my options with getting co2? please educate me here cause its been a while since i read up on co2 and there might be new stuff i dont know about.

 

[EntoCraig]

Yeah there are obvious issues with DIY, especially with larger tank. I have done DIY and it works, but it took me some tinkering to get the rations and schedule down. After switching to a pressurized system with an electronic solenoid, i was in heaven. Its SO much easier to control the amounts of Co2 entering the tank and you can put it on a timer I spent 130 for a complete setup (a steal) but you can a nice, larger setup for under $200.

PS: have you checked out PlantedTank.net? you will get lots more responses there.

 

[Prometheus]

no i haven't joined that forum, but now that you mention it i probably ought to. in fact it might be a better place to put a journal of this project. thanks

i did some reading in the sticky section here, and then after what you just wrote and something else my dad mentioned to me about the diy setup i have now been convinced to skip over the whole diy stuff and go straight for the pressurized system.