Is this enough sump?
- Thread starter Aqualoon
- Start date
Zander_The_RBP;3396398; said:
Keep an eye on that mesh. I had a mesh strainer thing similar to this. It clogged up pretty quickly and even though I've set my tank and sump up so that neither will spill out, the blocked overflow could have cost me a pump and my bacteria. I've since ditched it and I'm just running filter wool in the sump for mech filtration.
Aqualoon;3396387; said:
I suggest againt using a canister filter for a "mechanical filter" as they are much more difficult to clean (compared to HOBs for example) and thus get cleaned less often.
Waste in the system is still polluting the system until it is removed from the system... even if it is in a filter... Thus regularly cleaning the filter that picks up waste is important...
Flow rate is also a very important factor when addressing "Mechanical Filtration". A canister with an actual flow rate comparable to an HOB's actual flow rate will cost several times more money to initial put in place.
Yet... in my experience... once you put enough "Mechanical Filters" in place to keep a tank clean, the "Bilogical Filtration" is also taken care of... which would make your sump unnecessary...
I suggest you be creative with the intake/overflow on your sump and design it to be a better mechanical filter... The single design change is to build it so that it takes water in from the bottom of the tank as opposed to from the top...
Think of this...
Tank is drilled in the back... if you were to use a T coming off the bulkhead that angled down a the same diameter as the end going into the bulkhead... and the other angle straight out of the bulkhead (not up) tapering to a smaller diameter...
A Pipe going from the downward facing end... to a T at the bottom with two slightly smaller diamter pipes going left and right... Cover that whole structure with styrofoam carved to look like a tree.. cover the foam with almond colored aquarium safe silicone (DAP makes it, not the plus series) to look like bark... make sure that water can get to the T at the bulkhead...
Maybe even angle the T at the bulkhead up just a hair with a 45...
This will allow the bulk of the water to be collected off the bottom at the base of the "tree" thus allowing your sump to serve as a mechanical filter... any sand sucked into the filter will just sit in the sump, neer affecting the pump... The internal plumbing will all be hidden by the "tree"... You will not need to deal with the complexity of curing the "tree" as you would with a concrete background making it a very simply DIY build... The T at the top will serve as an "overflow drain" if the bottom intakes cannot keep up with the pump or get clogged...
Like I said, I have no clue why people do not set their sumps up to be efficient mechanical filters... All it takes is a little forethought and creativity...
Tank is drilled in the back... if you were to use a T coming off the bulkhead that angled down a the same diameter as the end going into the bulkhead... and the other angle straight out of the bulkhead (not up) tapering to a smaller diameter...
A Pipe going from the downward facing end... to a T at the bottom with two slightly smaller diamter pipes going left and right... Cover that whole structure with styrofoam carved to look like a tree.. cover the foam with almond colored aquarium safe silicone (DAP makes it, not the plus series) to look like bark... make sure that water can get to the T at the bulkhead...
Maybe even angle the T at the bulkhead up just a hair with a 45...
This will allow the bulk of the water to be collected off the bottom at the base of the "tree" thus allowing your sump to serve as a mechanical filter... any sand sucked into the filter will just sit in the sump, neer affecting the pump... The internal plumbing will all be hidden by the "tree"... You will not need to deal with the complexity of curing the "tree" as you would with a concrete background making it a very simply DIY build... The T at the top will serve as an "overflow drain" if the bottom intakes cannot keep up with the pump or get clogged...
Like I said, I have no clue why people do not set their sumps up to be efficient mechanical filters... All it takes is a little forethought and creativity...
For me it's all about familiarity. I have never owned a drilled tank, never even had sump parts in my hands before (the hoses and plumbing etc.) and before this weekend the biggest tank I have owned was a 55 gallon. I don't feel comfortable doing what you described because right now with just a basic sump install I don't feel comfortable.
For example, it's like explaining to the average Joe how to install watercooling on your CPU, GPUs (SLI or Crossfire setup), northbridge and HD's. For me I could do that all in under 2 hours without breaking a sweat. But for someone who hasn't even opened their computer case before and doesn't even know half the of the terminology I just used it can be a bit intimidating.
And yes I have been doing some reading on sumps and how to set it up but I still don't feel as comfortable as I would like because I am the type of person that learns by doing. I know some people can read some directions and go from there - wish I was one of those people.
For example, it's like explaining to the average Joe how to install watercooling on your CPU, GPUs (SLI or Crossfire setup), northbridge and HD's. For me I could do that all in under 2 hours without breaking a sweat. But for someone who hasn't even opened their computer case before and doesn't even know half the of the terminology I just used it can be a bit intimidating.
And yes I have been doing some reading on sumps and how to set it up but I still don't feel as comfortable as I would like because I am the type of person that learns by doing. I know some people can read some directions and go from there - wish I was one of those people.
Im with you Aqualoon. I bought a huge take with internal overflows. The man who sold me the tank gave me no idea what I was supposed to do with the overflows. The largest tank before new purchase was a 55 gallon with HOB filter. After 18 unsuccessful tries of waterproofing the holes in the bottom of my tank, someone told me about these wonderful things called bulkheads....
Now that Im a pro with it, Im going much much larger. You will get it in no time. As long as you have the bulkheads and piping...and its properly waterproofed...there is nothing to worry about. Let me know if you need any help. Just send me a private message on here. I have been in your position before, and am glad to help out.
Now that Im a pro with it, Im going much much larger. You will get it in no time. As long as you have the bulkheads and piping...and its properly waterproofed...there is nothing to worry about. Let me know if you need any help. Just send me a private message on here. I have been in your position before, and am glad to help out.
hey nutcase, are you suggesting something like this.
I am useing bottom drilled tank, with 3 overflows, and rugf setup so my clean water is coming in the bottom.
I may try your ideas. I plan i useing wet/dry setup so i can change the mech filter pretty easy and often.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262743
this is my build plan. I am copying chompers maintenance free setup.
I am useing bottom drilled tank, with 3 overflows, and rugf setup so my clean water is coming in the bottom.
I may try your ideas. I plan i useing wet/dry setup so i can change the mech filter pretty easy and often.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262743
this is my build plan. I am copying chompers maintenance free setup.
^5 Thanks Redoog... that is pretty much exactly what I was describing... the one on riser on the far left that is...
If you add a 45* fitting facing up, this will make the "suction" from the bottom of the tank a bit stronger... But then you'll want to get fancy and do something to cap it so it doesn't suck air...
If you have three intakes/overflows, I'd put them on each one...
For your return, I would put at least a small spray bar returning at the top and this would serve two useful functions... surface agitation (which isn't really needed as water is oxygenated in the Wet/Dry-Sump) and will also be a point for the "siphon" to break when you turn the pump off. The bulk of the water could still return at the bottom via jets...
And I really like the idea of making a styrofoam tree and coating it with almond silicone...
If you add a 45* fitting facing up, this will make the "suction" from the bottom of the tank a bit stronger... But then you'll want to get fancy and do something to cap it so it doesn't suck air...
If you have three intakes/overflows, I'd put them on each one...
For your return, I would put at least a small spray bar returning at the top and this would serve two useful functions... surface agitation (which isn't really needed as water is oxygenated in the Wet/Dry-Sump) and will also be a point for the "siphon" to break when you turn the pump off. The bulk of the water could still return at the bottom via jets...
And I really like the idea of making a styrofoam tree and coating it with almond silicone...
do you mean a 45 on the top T fitting?
I think i might try 2 setups like the green, but still leave the one orange as is, it will only get a trickle of water. It would make a little surface movement as well. The siphone break on the return should creat some surface movement as well, and would be on the other side of the tank.
I have also thought about adding 2 airstones near the bottom of each tree. In this case above the lower t fitting. My thought was this would help cause a draw into the bottom, much like the simple air filters i used to use 20 years ago. What do you think about that?
