I think under 2 ft tall is almost always less than 1/2" its all about the integrity of that pane. At Disney World they have 20,000 gallon tanks with 30ft+ panes of glass. The tank is 2ft tall and its no more than 1/2". Its all about length and piece of mind until you start talking about 2'+
Join 2 55G together
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Oh an of coarse what is in the tank. I wouldnt recomment 3/16" glass even for a 55g, if you have a snakehead or large pacu.
(then again, I wouldnt recommend either for anything smaller than 125)
(then again, I wouldnt recommend either for anything smaller than 125)
Dr Joe;920007; said:
Cant do the tubing.. I dont want my 12" catfish get stuck in the tube
Beside the tube is only allow the fish to gain acess from one tank to another, it doesnt give a large area for it to do the circling swim..
And I havent got a straight answer of how to combine tank.. ? How? just smash up the glass.. take off the plastic thing.. and then glue them together?
Maybe remove the plastic strip/molding from top and bottom of the tank and then use a razor knife to remove the sealant? If I were to try this, I think i would try that first.
ok im going to start the project soonfishdance;914183; said:I have joined tanks numerous times. No real dramas if you dont mind the vertical join line. On 10mm thick glass up to 60cm high/deep, you dont even need a brace but if you have tankbusters or the tank is not in your fishroom (ie expensive if it leaks) then I would add a small brace. I have joined up to three - 8 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot tanks ... just to get a 24 foot tank and even joined some at right angles to make long or L shaped corner tanks.
Have enclosed a photo of 2 tanks joined, (both 6x2x2 foot) because this apartment is on the 7th floor and 6 foot was the largest size I could fit in the elevator. Joining tanks is much cheaper although if you do have a long glass tank (over 10 foot) I would recommend a split (2 piece) bottom to allow flexibility.
so how do you seal both of them up properly? clamps needed?
Sorry for the delay. I have been busy with work and also been struggling with a sketch drawing program so I could post some diagrams. I have struggled and struggled so I decided to give up on the diagrams... 
Joining 2 glass tanks is very simple as long as your stand/base is very solid. A single base or if joined, dont put the stand join directly under the tank join.
Remove the tanks plastic corner protectors by sliding a knife down each side and then peel it off. Cut out the glass end piece you want to remove from each tank with a single sided razor. I actually use a wooden handled thin flexible paint scraper and then clean off/scrape remaining silicon carefully and wipe down with methalated spirits to remove any oil/water. I make a nice clean cut so the old and new silicon join will be neat.
Push each tank up as close together as you can and check for any obstacles. With the sides just touching, the bases will be 2 glass thicknesses apart (where the ends used to be). example if your tank is
10mm thick glass, there will now be approx 20mm gap between the bases. You will have to cut a glass filling piece for this. Keep the filling bottom piece 10mm thick, but slightly smalller than this gap. - ie 18mm wide and slightly shorter than the tank width since it is better to be a little smaller than too big here -
You will also need some 6mm glass to strengthen the vertical join on front and back panels.
I would also add a front to back cross brace which will really strengthen the tank.
If you cant cut glass, just go to a glasier. You dont need much glass at all, 5 slim pieces in all. A cutting list is summarised below:
1) Bottom filling piece - 10mm thick x 18mm wide x length is just shorter than internal width of tank. This is to fill the gap where the 2 ends used to be.
2) Front brace - 6mm x 12mm wide x internal height of tank. There will be cross braces so measure, dont make them the same height as the side panels.
3) Back brace - mirror image of above
4) Bottom brace - to entirely cover the bottom filling piece. - 6mm x approx 40mm wide x length between from and back braces.
5) Front to Back Cross Brace - Just copy existing cross braces.
Once your satisfied the glass pieces are right size, glue in place. There is no hurry as it can be done in stages. The bottom filler piece should be done first. Next the side panels and finally the cross brace. No clamps required but some masking tape to hold vertical pieces could be used. The tanks will be dry and empty when joining.
I have deliberately left this section vague since glueing should be commonsense. Use industrial construction grade silicon if available. Post questions if you have any.
Joining 2 glass tanks is very simple as long as your stand/base is very solid. A single base or if joined, dont put the stand join directly under the tank join.
Remove the tanks plastic corner protectors by sliding a knife down each side and then peel it off. Cut out the glass end piece you want to remove from each tank with a single sided razor. I actually use a wooden handled thin flexible paint scraper and then clean off/scrape remaining silicon carefully and wipe down with methalated spirits to remove any oil/water. I make a nice clean cut so the old and new silicon join will be neat.
Push each tank up as close together as you can and check for any obstacles. With the sides just touching, the bases will be 2 glass thicknesses apart (where the ends used to be). example if your tank is
10mm thick glass, there will now be approx 20mm gap between the bases. You will have to cut a glass filling piece for this. Keep the filling bottom piece 10mm thick, but slightly smalller than this gap. - ie 18mm wide and slightly shorter than the tank width since it is better to be a little smaller than too big here -
You will also need some 6mm glass to strengthen the vertical join on front and back panels.
I would also add a front to back cross brace which will really strengthen the tank.
If you cant cut glass, just go to a glasier. You dont need much glass at all, 5 slim pieces in all. A cutting list is summarised below:
1) Bottom filling piece - 10mm thick x 18mm wide x length is just shorter than internal width of tank. This is to fill the gap where the 2 ends used to be.
2) Front brace - 6mm x 12mm wide x internal height of tank. There will be cross braces so measure, dont make them the same height as the side panels.
3) Back brace - mirror image of above
4) Bottom brace - to entirely cover the bottom filling piece. - 6mm x approx 40mm wide x length between from and back braces.
5) Front to Back Cross Brace - Just copy existing cross braces.
Once your satisfied the glass pieces are right size, glue in place. There is no hurry as it can be done in stages. The bottom filler piece should be done first. Next the side panels and finally the cross brace. No clamps required but some masking tape to hold vertical pieces could be used. The tanks will be dry and empty when joining.
I have deliberately left this section vague since glueing should be commonsense. Use industrial construction grade silicon if available. Post questions if you have any.
