keeping snakes in glass?

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thanks guys, so in a short sum, no need to move them, dont touch after feeding for a good 4-7 days or when shredding, start handling them from a young age and always give them a pat on the head or something so they understand whats going on? :) bit like my flowerhorn when I clean the tank if I smash my hand in there i get attacked, If I touch her on the side or the belly she allows my hand in the tank and even lays down in my palm.

I also believe from the short reading done today that the only snake I had in mind of keeping that did require a decent humidity level was green tree snakes, but everyone suggests not trying them as my first snake, sort of like discus you work up to them.
 
A big issue with glass aquariums is humidity. If it's a snake that needs higher humidity levels, then you may have problems. Also, you don't need to feed your snake in a different container. This is an outdated method that many people and breeders no longer do because you should not bother a snake after feeding it. It is more likely to regurgitate its food or bite you.

Hardly outdated the info. was gotten from Snake breeders both on websites and at Expo's last time I attended one was this year. BHB suggest's this Outback, Best Boids, Cutting Edge Herps and NERD. Professional breeders with years of experience so they probably know a little something. They feed their snakes in their enclosure because the snakes aren't pets, they're a source of revenue and are left alone and not handled unless necessary. So if the guys a professional breeder with hundreds of snakes and has no intention of handling them you'd be right, but he wants a pet. And It was stated about the regurgitation in my post and not to handle it for a couple of days after feeding it. Guess you missed that in my post. Also there's as many articles stating the opposite of what you said so siting one isn't the be all nor is saying there are others, since as I said there are plenty of others disagreeing with them. As for humidity it's not a problem mist the tank or buy a fogger or make one yourself out of a humidifier or buy a mister that works on a timer if you live in a dry climate fill the hide with some moist substrate. Buy some gauges if your unsure. Personally I've got 3 large fish tanks in the same room as my snakes so humidity is never a problem.

First of all, snakes don't hear, so I don't know how they can hear the cage opening. By assuming that they learn that their cage opening means they are going to get fed and will bite is no different than if they learned that the cage opening means they're gonna be moved to the other cage, which would also get a feeding response. I keep and breed several species of pythons and boas, all of which are fed in their own cage. I have not been bit in years. Just make sure you let the snake know you're there and don't stick your hand in if you've handled rodents. They know the difference.

I noticed a big difference when I got lazy and just threw food in they associated that disturbance with food and went into immediate S position. While before they where relaxed prior to me changing my routine. Also you say they can't hear. They can not the same way that we can but they do have 2 distinct auditory systems, google it. It's called bone conductive hearing and was the leading inspiration behind Cochlear implants for the deaf. Again google it. So while you do keep snakes and may do it well your info. is incorrect. That's why I ask people all the time about things I'm interested in, google things and read. I never think I know it all, but try to do the best to be informed. I've owned an Armatus for a long time yet I'd never disagree with anyone's statement unless I was completely sure that they where wrong, as I don't presume to know it all based on my limited experience with them as I'm no scientist.

I did a quick search on the myth of feeding in a separate container. Here's a link. There are also many other pages that support what I said above. http://pet-snakes.com/feed-snake-separate-tank

Just so you know I'm not trying to offend you, just merely stating some facts and some of my personal experience.
 
thanks guys, so in a short sum, no need to move them, dont touch after feeding for a good 4-7 days or when shredding, start handling them from a young age and always give them a pat on the head or something so they understand whats going on? :) bit like my flowerhorn when I clean the tank if I smash my hand in there i get attacked, If I touch her on the side or the belly she allows my hand in the tank and even lays down in my palm.

I also believe from the short reading done today that the only snake I had in mind of keeping that did require a decent humidity level was green tree snakes, but everyone suggests not trying them as my first snake, sort of like discus you work up to them.

They really don't like being touched(tree pythons) your very likely to get bit if you try to handle one. That's a snake that you buy if looking at them is enough for you. I mean some people handle them successfully, but they're the exception to the rule. Best snake for a beginner is Ball Pythons, Hogg Isle Boa's or Woma's in my opinion, they're forgiving with beginner mistakes and unlikely to bite.
 
Corn snakes are nice and simple to care for, and don't get huge. They stay small, and just look nicer than the pythons and boas and whatnot IMO. They're nice little critters, so if you want to get a small-ish snake, get a Corn Snake :) Humidity isnt a big deal with them either.
 
Corn snakes are nice and simple to care for, and don't get huge. They stay small, and just look nicer than the pythons and boas and whatnot IMO. They're nice little critters, so if you want to get a small-ish snake, get a Corn Snake :) Humidity isnt a big deal with them either.

Yea thats why I picked them as my starter snake and recommend them for any beginner snake keeper

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mmm a lot of the aussie snake keepers seem to handle there jungles/diamonds weekly else feeding :S? they do state that "" The sxr lines (athertons) are extremely placid and great to handle""
seems to be a bit of a debate about it, they say diamonds are much more placid then jungles. hmmm more reading too do I guess haha

cant get ball pythons over here, only childerns, many say they are the same as jungles etc just smaller?
 
Children's Pythons are great to start out with.

For the people suggesting Ball Pythons, Corn Snakes, etc. Australia has very strict exotic laws, whatever it is needs to be native to Australia.
 
I agree for the most part. However, i've seen snakes other than retics bite a hand when reaching in. Some of my boas strike at any movement when there is a hint of rat smell around. The snakehook method works very well. Even if a snake typically doesn't bite when you reach in, it's a bad habit to have. Wash your hands before handling and you never have to worry about it.

This, as long as your hands don't smell like rodents, the only snakes you need to worry about a feed response from are the really psycho feeders like retics. And if you must concern yourself, hook train them. Take a snakehook (or anything really) and gently touch the snake with it before reaching in and grabbing it, so it associates the touching with being handled.
 
koltsix, no offense taken. I didn't miss the regurgitation part but it kind of contradicts the feeding in a separate container thing you mentioned, unless you setup an entire secondary cage including heat source and water and don't touch it for a couple days. Not a reasonable solution for a person who just wants a simple snake setup. I've never fed a single snake i've owned in a separate enclosure and it's never resulted in any snake confusing me for food. Like you said though, people have different methods.
 
well I have decided on a jungle python, if he bites me so be it still gonna hold him time to time cant get over some of the colors we have over here of them really stands out! anyways I will keep you guys updated some how, still going to do some reading for a few weeks as I dont believe in rushing anything especially when its alive.
 
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