Large Capacity Gravel Filter Idea - please discuss

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I understand what you're saying, but think of it this way... since that process broke down, I decided to try using this gravel filter as the prefilter for the socks. There are still going to be sock filters, but they're going to be doing much less work. Anyway, it doesn't hurt to try things. I'm probably just going to give it a try and see what happens. It'll probably nag me until I do. I have nearly everything that I need to do so, because of all the stuff I bought when I was building bag filters, sumps, and other things.
 
I have seen birdman's filter before. I guess I shouldn't, but I don't like the blower idea...

I also don't understand how he can expect to move 2000 GPH through that much sand. Doesn't the sand slow it down a lot? I don't know, but I even worry about the gravel I want to use and how much that's going to slow things down. Anyway, I suppose I could make one of those in a 5 gallon bucket some day. It might be an interesting experiment and the right size for a small tank like my 75 gallon tank.
 
I used a 5 gallon bucket for a prototype. The water flowed pretty fast. The output was slowed down as debris clogged the output lines, but they sped up after that. I suppose the debris will need some time to break down before it will exit the bottom. So far, so good. I still need to force it to collect more debris, put a bag on the output of the bucket, etc.

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Sand and gravel have been used for over a century to filter water for drinking. The dirty water to be filtered is usually applied to the top of the gravel for easy cleaning, because the deeper into the gravel bed it is applied, the easier it is for pockets of debris to collect and form mudballs (which are hard to get out, and can be nitrate factories).
Filters need to be backwashed evenly from the bottom up, to remove debris, our filters had pipes inlaid over the bottom to force water up, which forced debris out. Each filter needed to be backwashed every 4 days, or break threw of particulate would occur, and internal mud balls could form compromising efficiency.
Water had to be prefiltered before applying to the gravel beds to keep the gravel from clogging, which would require even more maintenance.
I was in charge of analyzing filter efficiency, and locating problem areas in each of 32 filters like the one in the pic below.
And find although they are great as part of a treatment chain for producing millions of gallons of drinking water, I would not use this method for my aquariums, as they are much more work to keep clean, and unless carefully monitored can create unexpected and unseen nitrate and bacterial pockets.
 
That's a lot of good info. Thanks!

My plan for using it on the tank is to keep the gravel bed shallow enough that I can inject a siphon tube into it for cleaning, if needed. I was hoping that draining from the bottom would work well enough, but that was my backup plan. As for the continuous breakdown of toxins, I wanted to either create a highly filtered tank with Seachem Matrix or a large sand FBF that allows a small amount of water to continuously get filtered in a low oxygen environment. As has been said before, increased air bubbles would be required to make up for this sapping of the tank's oxygen. Lastly, I figure that if I can build one that only needs maintainance a couple times per year - to remove a large buildup - that might be a good thing. I could just dump it out on a long box that I could make with small holes in the bottom, hose it down with the garden hose... maybe even spray some hot water and soap on it before the final rinse... and then return it to operation. The challenges will be in capacity, clogging, and bio efficiency, I suppose. Anyways, I like to experiment. It'll be interesting.
 
I think a shallow gravel bed is definitely the best way to go, to be easily vacuumed, and if it were me, I'd do some kind of pre-filtration, such as a filter sock on each pipe coming into the gravel enclosure, or a floss mat that could easily be removed and rinsed.
If there is room, and if light was available, some bog or terrestrial plants might be added as nitrate removers.
 
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