Leaking black steel fittings

[Pharaoh]

Pics are a must!

 

[hbluehunter]

Yea throw some pics up.. I need to work on my drip system.

 

[DB junkie]

Here's some pics of my lil nightmare.... I ran into more issues tonight but I'll explain those when I get some pics of the repairs taken (camera batt was dead tonight).

Till then the beginning.....

 

[philfreenode]

My reply was how the hell can it work for gas but not water? What's good for one should be good for the other right?

different molecular formula and properties of water vs. methane gas and presence of elements in the water going through the fitting than what it was designed for means potential for chemical reactions taking place that could damage the fittings. it may be that one type of fitting will work for both and one will only work for 1 application and it's a price difference that makes there be two different products on the market

 

[DB junkie]

Chemical reactions in my water too? Where can I get a filter for those?

IF it isn't one thing it's another.

 

[Clay]

so, to end this debate about gas black iron pipe...

It was used a lot in older homes, and is still used in commercial buildings as a means of running water. It is also used as a means of running natural gas or propane.

As far as the fittings themselves, there is nothing wrong with using them, although you could have used a different material. You did right with the Rectorseal (but you know that already), and I have no idea what you're saying here:

different molecular formula and properties of water vs. methane gas and presence of elements in the water going through the fitting than what it was designed for means potential for chemical reactions taking place that could damage the fittings

Black iron pipe can be used for water, and is still in use for potable water delivery. I wouldn't worry about molecular level chemical reactions.

 

[Dan F]

so, to end this debate about gas black iron pipe...

It was used a lot in older homes, and is still used in commercial buildings as a means of running water. It is also used as a means of running natural gas or propane.

As far as the fittings themselves, there is nothing wrong with using them, although you could have used a different material. You did right with the Rectorseal (but you know that already), and I have no idea what you're saying here:Black iron pipe can be used for water, and is still in use for potable water delivery. I wouldn't worry about molecular level chemical reactions.

Black iron pipe/fittings are identical to galvanized fittings except for the galvanization. They certainly will hold water. They are still commonly used in sprinkler systems, and of course for gas. They are not allowed by code for new potable water systems (in Oregon) for the simple reason that they rust. Aggressive water chemistry will accelerate this. Black fittings may be used in the repair of old systems utilizing black iron pipe.

My point was really that a galvanized fitting is a better choice for water systems, not that the black fitting was in any way the root of the problem. As it turns out the problem was caused by the different amount of torque it takes to properly seal a gasket joint versus a tapered thread joint.

I worked for six years for a plumbing company, including two years of apprenticeship training. I went back to school (university) before getting my journeyman's card, but I do have considerable experience in the field.

Sorry for the derail, but I think this is all good information.

By the way, Rectorseal is definitely good stuff, but when it comes to pipe dope, I prefer Slic-Tite.

 

[DB junkie]

To end my debate the black steel fittings are sitting in a snowbank a few hundred feet from the house. I bet they are deep in that snowbank. I have low tolerance for failure. The valve you see in the first pic leaked since I moved in with just the washer hooked up. After taking everything apart several times I officially declared the gangster rig in the 3rd pic simply a dumbass idea. There is now a FHT to MPT adapter to a 3/4" female pvc pipe thread fitting to a union then the manifold. This way in order to take it apart I just unscrew the union then the couple fittings that screw onto the valve. Will be much less confusing once I get last night's pics up. But yeah, it's PVC now, And for the record I used black steel at the last house for 2 years with no issues and the black steel I used at this house sealed up fine as well but after taking that rig apart so many times it became obvious just how bad an idea it was so it seemed easier to me to just use what I had lying around.... PVC.

3 tanks dripping, one to go.

I've been messing with 4 different kinds of pipe sealent. So far this blue monster stuff seems prefered but all of them seem to work.

 

[Dan F]

To end my debate the black steel fittings are sitting in a snowbank a few hundred feet from the house. I bet they are deep in that snowbank. I have low tolerance for failure. The valve you see in the first pic leaked since I moved in with just the washer hooked up. After taking everything apart several times I officially declared the gangster rig in the 3rd pic simply a dumbass idea. There is now a FHT to MPT adapter to a 3/4" female pvc pipe thread fitting to a union then the manifold. This way in order to take it apart I just unscrew the union then the couple fittings that screw onto the valve. Will be much less confusing once I get last night's pics up. But yeah, it's PVC now, And for the record I used black steel at the last house for 2 years with no issues and the black steel I used at this house sealed up fine as well but after taking that rig apart so many times it became obvious just how bad an idea it was so it seemed easier to me to just use what I had lying around.... PVC.

3 tanks dripping, one to go.

I've been messing with 4 different kinds of pipe sealent. So far this blue monster stuff seems prefered but all of them seem to work.

Excellent place for them.

I think you are smart to do what you've done, it sounds like a much easier system to tinker around with. It is always best to stick with plastic and brass fittings when possible. Besides being easier to work with, you don't need to worry about electrolysis (the corrosion caused by using dissimilar metals in a piping system).

Sorry if I was beating the proverbial dead horse in regards to the black fittings - It isn't often that you get to have meaningful discussions on plumbing materials and I tend to get a little carried away.

By the way, I noticed you are tempering the water for your drip system. This seems like a good idea, but most people don't do this on their drip systems, from what I've seen.

 

[DB junkie]

Dan, believe me I too MUCH enjoy a good conversation with knowledgeable people. I fix cars for a living.... IF I didn't learn from mistakes and others much more knowledgable then me I would have been forced out of this career in the first 5 years.

I didn't realize the importance of having hot water involved in the drip system till our wonderfull midwest weather rares it's ugliness. No power for 46 hours straight forced me to do waterchanges every 3 hours to keep temps up. This way I simply tinker with valves and all I have to do during an outage is bypass my AC pumps with DC livewell pumps.....

The temp thing takes fiddling but I'm sure it pays off in the long run if you only need a couple OLD stealths to heat thousands of gallons.

Will post more pics tonight..... Mite even sneak in a couple of the re-braced tube steel stand for my 750.....