LED lighting project

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Very nice job. I like that it is budget friendly. This definiely gives us something to think about and work with.
 
Here are the pics that I promised.

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And I would have to agree with you Rivermud. The project is fairly budget friendly. Depending on the intensity wanted in your project, not having to change bulbs in a T-5 or a PC setup will more than pay for itself in no time. Bulb life is expected to be around 11 years for a LED, not to mention the lower energy costs of the LED's. It's really a win win situation in my mind.

I will have to post my first negative about the project now. The lenses seem to have loosened after installing and removing them a few times. It was getting to the point that a mere brush against the C channel would cause it to fall off. So.....once again I delve into my supply bin and find canopy glue for my R/C planes. It's a white rubbery glue that dries flexible, but should still be able to remove easily if I want. It also reminds me of what they call Tacky Glue in a arts and crafts store. I applies a very very small amount to the base of the lens, and voila, no more lenses falling off.

Just thought I should throw that out there as it is the ONLY drawback I've seen so far.


Scott
 
lights turnd out good. I did a led project as well they give off 0 heat and my plants are thriving. next time im gonna use blue leds as well for moonlighting.
 
Neogenesis;3646526; said:
I can say that with mine, heat is NOT a issue. They barely get warm, the C channel is still cool to the touch.

Good to know. I'd been considering a wacky plan to divert some of the returns from my filters to run through the C-channels to essentially produce a water-cooled heat sink that would also supplement heating for the aquarium. It would be cool if I could get it to work, but would also make things way more complicated so I'd rather it was unnecessary.
 
That a heck of a idea, and I could see it actually working, and saving on heating costs as your heater wouldn't run as much, but in my build it's unneeded. Again, I may not be driving them as hard as the salt water guys, but I don't need that much intensity and it will only extend bulb life.


Scott
 
Good stuff. Can you show some pics of how you connected the driver to the power cord, and what kind of power cord you used?
 
Looks good.

I don't think the heat becomes an issue until you really start packing them close together and cranking them up. Spaced out like yours are there is plenty of air space.

80 deg lenses are a bit of a compromise. They don't focus the light as much, but still light up the bottom rather than the water. Also, If you decide to add more down the road the blues do really make the cichlids colors come out. You wouldn't need to go 50/50, just a few for the coloring.
 
slowpoke;3648282; said:
Good stuff. Can you show some pics of how you connected the driver to the power cord, and what kind of power cord you used?

I will definitely get something together.

mrunlucky07;3648655; said:
Looks good.

I don't think the heat becomes an issue until you really start packing them close together and cranking them up. Spaced out like yours are there is plenty of air space.

80 deg lenses are a bit of a compromise. They don't focus the light as much, but still light up the bottom rather than the water. Also, If you decide to add more down the road the blues do really make the cichlids colors come out. You wouldn't need to go 50/50, just a few for the coloring.

I agree. I'm pretty sure I can measure Mah draw with my multimeter, which I need to do so I can see how hard I'm actually running these things. I do plan to mix in some blues with the next batch when I build them. I'm curious as to how the tank will look with them.

P.S. I'm also using the 60 degree lens, not the 80.

Scott
 
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