As for the lenses, 80 degree would just spread the light out more, and I think it would be less dynamic as the light it would just illuminate the tank more in general. Now if I went with the 40 degree lenses, then it would give me the spot light look that some people really like.
I just meant you could mix several different lens angles around the 12 LEDs... Maybe use some 80's to light the open areas & the 60's for those great beams you got. It still looks great as is though!
There is nothing special about the controller, but if you have a tank controller that will give off a 10v pulse width modulation signal, you can dim it remotely. I'm just supplying a 9 or so volt signal to it, and everything is happy. No twinkle program is needed, a little surface agitation and you'll get all the shimmer you need.
Now is where I come clean, as I don't fully understand the driver. There is a voltage and current pot , which I understand is different and both are adjustable. If no outside voltage is provided to the dimmable circuit, you get 0 current output and therefore no juice to the LED's. When you provide the 10v as specified, the led's work, however the voltage pot doesn't change anything and the current pot changes voltage. So what I did is measure the voltage with a voltmeter as I adjusted the current pot to get my 39.5 volts. Are voltage and current tied together somehow?
Voltage & current are absolutely related. Check out "Ohm's Law" & do a little more LED research if you have the time. Anyhow, if the LED's are working & there's no excesive heat, just double check your connections & use proper fire/electrical safety precautions. Unplug the whole lighting system if you have any suspicions of something starting to fail.
The diagram is coming....having a tough time making it on my mac as I'm struggling to get a handle on this freeware image editing program.
Scott
