Leveling of my 600 Gallon.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Interesting topic. Was going to suggest filling it so it self levels but no idea what that could do to the tank. Why I was asking about the thickness. 3/4” would be more comfortable than 1”. If it was my tank I’d likely fill it and see what happens knowing I can get another one relatively easily. For someone else’s tank though I’d suggest the shims

its a 1"

All acrylic tanks bow... even the bottoms...even brand new tanks will be shaped to the piece of wood they were built on. Y some manufacturers make and sell the tank on the same sheet of 3/4" ply it was built on. they actually glue the wood to the bottom of the tank. This is nothing to be worried about. Lepisosteus Lepisosteus is spot on as usual. 1st shim the stand as needed between the stand and floor. 2nd shim between the stand and ur plywood. the most important part to keep supported is the outer perimetter (bottom seam). You can use as many shims needed as necessary between the plywood or even between the tank and plywood to fill in any "air gaps". Every used acrylic tank ive owned had a bowed bottom...this is all just part of setting one up IMO... no stand is 100% true...material is not 100% true either so we need to literally fill in the gaps as best as we can with shims so no seam seperation is possible. My acrylic tanks are 25-30yrs old and are shimmed everywhere to compensate for any discrepencies. If youve never owned or setup an acrylic tank...please do not confuse the O.P. 2 many people are misinformed in this process and theres alot of misconceptions such as foam under acrylics and apparently shimming aswell. Nothing catastrophic can happen if u properly shim between the plywood and stand. With the weight supported seam seperation isnt possible.

This is always a poor example...but a valid one... watch an episode of "tanked"... they deliver the tank with the wood glued to the bottom... then shim under that wood on top of the metal stand. this is all planned out for a reason. no foam...no b.s....

when I drain the tank to fix some scratches I remember I heard a "pop" maybe there is no more pressure on the tank anymore?

one corner of the tank has this

img_7847-jpg.1351525
 
its a 1"



when I drain the tank to fix some scratches I remember I heard a "pop" maybe there is no more pressure on the tank anymore?

one corner of the tank has this

img_7847-jpg.1351525


looks like normal wear n tear to me in that corner, no biggie IMO... direct evidence of what happens when u dont fully shim or support the bottom permitter seam. The foam only makes it worse almost "free floating" that area. Just be sure to get that foam out and shim directly under that white patch to prevent it from moving any further. You can also try to inject a bit of weldon#3 or #4 solvent into the seam there to turn it clear again. Most of time it will fill right in. If the solvent will inject into the white patch dont stop lol... u only really have 1 shot at it as the seam will fuse up from the outside after a pass. Alot of times it will take in one spot and u can keep squeezing until its filled back in clear/completly. Sometimes they bubble a bit or dont take at all, atleast u can try tho. Nothing detrimental either IMO as long as u keep an eye on it and it doesnt spread further. The tank looks to have thick material and theres still alot of good bond left in that seam area to not worry much.
 
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