leveling question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
So the problem you are having is the stand top is NOT flat.

I think there are a few comments that are confused about flat and level.

Flat is where you put the flat bottom of the tank on and it rocks back and forth.

And out of level is where the tank is laying flat on the stand, But when you lay your level on the top of the tank. You find that the whole set up is leaning to one side.

So with your stand not being flat I would got ahead and shim the tank with as many shimms as takes to get it not to rock back and forth. Also use hard wood shims from a hardware store. They are just as tough as your stand is.

And after you get the tank shimmed into place then level the tank with shims under the stand to correct any leaning.

I have allways read to not have your shims placed more than 3'' apart. So at the bad end of the stand shim it as much as needed and then shim it every 3'' back to where the tank meets the stand.

I did this to my 2x4 rack of 4 55g's and that has lasted for 3 years with no problems.
 
hybridtheoryd16;3268875; said:
So the problem you are having is the stand top is NOT flat.

I think there are a few comments that are confused about flat and level.

Flat is where you put the flat bottom of the tank on and it rocks back and forth.

And out of level is where the tank is laying flat on the stand, But when you lay your level on the top of the tank. You find that the whole set up is leaning to one side.

So with your stand not being flat I would got ahead and shim the tank with as many shimms as takes to get it not to rock back and forth. Also use hard wood shims from a hardware store. They are just as tough as your stand is.

And after you get the tank shimmed into place then level the tank with shims under the stand to correct any leaning.

I have allways read to not have your shims placed more than 3'' apart. So at the bad end of the stand shim it as much as needed and then shim it every 3'' back to where the tank meets the stand.

I did this to my 2x4 rack of 4 55g's and that has lasted for 3 years with no problems.



this is correct. the top of the stand is messed up. the stand itself is level. the rocking is what i was eliminating and have done so with the wood shims which should be just like sitting on the wood used in the construction of the stand itself.
 
Sounds great you should not have any problems with they way you fixed it.
 
I think it is an extremely important point that Hybridtheory made about putting shims every few inches… As shimming only the end of a tank/stand can cause/allow a “bowing” type pressure/stress…
 
nc_nutcase;3268848; said:
I have no problem with anyone questioning my posts… and I’ll be happy to explain why I think what I think…



While on one hand this is true, on the other the height of a tank dictates it’s weight per square inch… and a tank which is only supported by it’s edges has much less surface area in contact with the stand to distribute this weight…

On a tank that is only 1’ front to back the glass ‘spans’ a shorter distance than larger tanks… but on the contrary it uses thinner glass…

I won't deny that there is validity to variance in the size of the tank, but in relation to the thickness of glass vs gallonage, the conversation steers back to relative information. It's not something to argue, but something to keep in mind. Tanks are tank and to some degree they are all build against the same formulas.



nc_nutcase;3268848; said:
To simplify it… Styrofoam dents… and if there is additional pressure in one place, such as a raised corner, this will cause additional pressure on that place causing the raised point to dent into the Styrofoam more so than in adjacent areas…

The compression rates of foam are very easy to calculate. The rate at which foam compresses is directly proportionate to the weight exerted on the foam. If a tank is higher on one corner, there will be less weight exerted on the foam, thus, less compression of the foam. This in no way supports the tank, but gives the impression of support. The relationship of weight around the other three sides as opposed to the one high corner will show that the compression rate of the foam will not support the high end of the tank to the degree in which you need. I have done the math behind this in another thread. If you like, I will post the link with the calculations or post them in here.


nc_nutcase;3268848; said:
The tank I made an example out of did not leak at the seal… the front pane of glass cracked from the bottom left corner across to the middle of the right side… It sounded like a bomb going off when it did…

After inspecting the stand, I found it to be “twisted”… putting the styro/ply/styro sandwich between the tank and the twisted stand fixed the problem (and was not simply a patch to delay inevitable results)…

I used the term leak as a broad term. I have had one leak at the seal, and I have had a 20 burst exactly as yours did. I feel that both of these cases were related to the levelness and the tendency of the silicone to break. The 29 was originally a bit off level when setup at my other house. As soon as I put the tank back up and filled it (level), it burst at the seams.

nc_nutcase;3268848; said:
I would also like to add when we get into specifics on this topic we should clarify that it is very important to ensure the tank is “flat” on the stand, but the stand/tank being “level” is not a critical point. A twist in the stand or a raised corner or a bowed stand can cause “indifferntial pressure” on the tank which will stress the glass and/or seams which can result in either a blow out (broken glass) or a leak in the seal…

But if the tank is sitting flat on a stand that is flat… but for whatever reason the tank is not “level” (perfectly parallel to the earth)… the pressure will be evenly distributed to the stand…


Flat is just as, if not more important than level in most cases. I agree with you and hybrid theory on this. And in all cases, you should strive for both, period.

The one fact that I will slightly disagree is the need to have additional shims every three inches. Although I understand the though and believe that it could prevent some issues in the future, there are many example of tanks that have been only support on two side with the length going unsupported. One example would be cinder block stands. These tank are built to withstand this. Is there an inherent risk associated with doing this? Yes, there is. But it is possible to do this. Of course, we would then get back into the relationship of height to weight to glass thickness. We could go on all day. Bottom line, it doesn't hurt and may help, so why not do it?

Example, I shimmed a 55G tank that was high in one corner. I used a shim and left it at that. Theoretically, the tank was then unsupported in the middle and it only sat on the ends. This tank was completely level and I never had any problems. To some degree, it depends on the tank age, and how it was setup before. This example was a brand new tank. If that makes a difference, I'm not sure. There are a lot of factors that can be unknowns.
 
Pharaoh;3269679; said:
I won't deny that there is validity to variance in the size of the tank, but in relation to the thickness of glass vs gallonage, the conversation steers back to relative information. It's not something to argue, but something to keep in mind. Tanks are tank and to some degree they are all build against the same formulas.





The compression rates of foam are very easy to calculate. The rate at which foam compresses is directly proportionate to the weight exerted on the foam. If a tank is higher on one corner, there will be less weight exerted on the foam, thus, less compression of the foam. This in no way supports the tank, but gives the impression of support. The relationship of weight around the other three sides as opposed to the one high corner will show that the compression rate of the foam will not support the high end of the tank to the degree in which you need. I have done the math behind this in another thread. If you like, I will post the link with the calculations or post them in here.




I used the term leak as a broad term. I have had one leak at the seal, and I have had a 20 burst exactly as yours did. I feel that both of these cases were related to the levelness and the tendency of the silicone to break. The 29 was originally a bit off level when setup at my other house. As soon as I put the tank back up and filled it (level), it burst at the seams.




Flat is just as, if not more important than level in most cases. I agree with you and hybrid theory on this. And in all cases, you should strive for both, period.

The one fact that I will slightly disagree is the need to have additional shims every three inches. Although I understand the though and believe that it could prevent some issues in the future, there are many example of tanks that have been only support on two side with the length going unsupported. One example would be cinder block stands. These tank are built to withstand this. Is there an inherent risk associated with doing this? Yes, there is. But it is possible to do this. Of course, we would then get back into the relationship of height to weight to glass thickness. We could go on all day. Bottom line, it doesn't hurt and may help, so why not do it?

Example, I shimmed a 55G tank that was high in one corner. I used a shim and left it at that. Theoretically, the tank was then unsupported in the middle and it only sat on the ends. This tank was completely level and I never had any problems. To some degree, it depends on the tank age, and how it was setup before. This example was a brand new tank. If that makes a difference, I'm not sure. There are a lot of factors that can be unknowns.

alright good. my feeling towards it was also that it would be fine. even without the every three inches but i was thinking of doing that just in case. however i know many stands do not support the middle on these smaller size tanks. thanks for all the input and glad i could start a discussion.
 
not to hijack but whats the best way to level a 300g+ tank? My floor isn't level and I've slipped some wood shims from home depot between the stand and floor but wasn't sure if this would create pressure points. Should i use as many shims as possible to spread out pressure? The tank is on a tile flooring.

Tank is a brand new acrylic if that matters.
i guess i am hijacking...sorry!
 
with acrylic, its more pliable, so make sure you only shim at the stand/floor level. if it makes you feel better, use as many shims as you like, but i really don't think that it will cause any problems.
 
swede;3270075; said:
with acrylic, its more pliable, so make sure you only shim at the stand/floor level. if it makes you feel better, use as many shims as you like, but i really don't think that it will cause any problems.

Yep. :iagree:
 
so like a shim every foot would be okay for a 6' tank? I might just buy another pack use as many as I have..
 
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