Live or "normal" sand?
- Thread starter Otto_VonBacon
- Start date
Zoodiver;2550303; said:
So i guess a few days with phosphate removing media is in order?
How long you think it would take to start seeing progress?
skene;2551428; said:
Was going to do a water change today after school.
Reduced Lighting. Check
And i put some kent marine phosphate remover in a pantiehoe in my filter, i rinced it out ofcourse but this morning my two clownfish looked half dead, having to go school i just removed the thing becuase the temperture when't up about 2-3 degrees, and i lowered the heater abit too.
Clowns look fine now, going to try again once this electrican dude leaves.
your "cyno algea is out of control!
Also !
"LIVE SAND"
isn't really alive
how can someone put liveing organisms in a bag for months with a huge fluctuation in temp and light with no source of food or oxygen and expect it to be alive!
Just a scame to get more $$$$$ out of you!
buy a bunch of dry sand and put "LIVE ROCK" on it!
or get a big scoop of sand from an established tank ie; LFS of a friend
to seed it!!!!
DON"T waste money!
Also !
"LIVE SAND"
isn't really alive
how can someone put liveing organisms in a bag for months with a huge fluctuation in temp and light with no source of food or oxygen and expect it to be alive!
Just a scame to get more $$$$$ out of you!
buy a bunch of dry sand and put "LIVE ROCK" on it!
or get a big scoop of sand from an established tank ie; LFS of a friend
to seed it!!!!
DON"T waste money!
Myteemouse;2553948; said:
Well the live sand came in a set with my 90 gallon(Oceanic), along with a heater, a little bag of salt for 5 gallons (seriously, why? hard as a rock too
) and a sump(Proclear), and the stand/canopy/light(Oceanic as well), all on sale for $999. original price was around $2200.heres what you do to get rid of the cyano:
1) determine your water source (tap, RO/DI) You should be using RO/DI. This form of water is purified and contains low nitrate and no phosphate. The cyanos food.
2) increase the flow in your tank. Adding powerheads to get rid of dead spots in the tank, is every bit important as the food we feed our fish. were waste and left over food sit, breaks down into nitrate and phospate, creating sheets of algae, and increase nutrient load in the water.
3) adjust your light time. 8 hours for grow bulbs (daylight) and no longer then 12 hours for actinic bulbs (blue, supplement) This will lower the growth cycle of the algae, eventually causing it to regress because it has no energy source.
The trick with cyano is to follow these steps and remove it when you see it. I would bet a good chunk of money that your nitrates are off the chart, meaning 1 of 2 things. Either your test kit is off, or the cyano is using all the nitrate causing a 0 reading (which isnt a true reading)
Watch the amoung of food you feed and how often. Feed what your fish can eat in 3-5 mins is recommended. Remember fish in a reef feed mostly all day, as in nature, and dont require a larger large amount of food,
following all of these steps and conjuction with your normal water changes, you should see a regression in no time, Id give it 3 solid weeks of removing it when you see it and watching your husbandry skills and you may be in the clear.
Good luck.
1) determine your water source (tap, RO/DI) You should be using RO/DI. This form of water is purified and contains low nitrate and no phosphate. The cyanos food.
2) increase the flow in your tank. Adding powerheads to get rid of dead spots in the tank, is every bit important as the food we feed our fish. were waste and left over food sit, breaks down into nitrate and phospate, creating sheets of algae, and increase nutrient load in the water.
3) adjust your light time. 8 hours for grow bulbs (daylight) and no longer then 12 hours for actinic bulbs (blue, supplement) This will lower the growth cycle of the algae, eventually causing it to regress because it has no energy source.
The trick with cyano is to follow these steps and remove it when you see it. I would bet a good chunk of money that your nitrates are off the chart, meaning 1 of 2 things. Either your test kit is off, or the cyano is using all the nitrate causing a 0 reading (which isnt a true reading)
Watch the amoung of food you feed and how often. Feed what your fish can eat in 3-5 mins is recommended. Remember fish in a reef feed mostly all day, as in nature, and dont require a larger large amount of food,
following all of these steps and conjuction with your normal water changes, you should see a regression in no time, Id give it 3 solid weeks of removing it when you see it and watching your husbandry skills and you may be in the clear.
Good luck.
sweeTang21;2554503; said:
Tap water unfortunately, been wanting an RO for quite some time...
Thanks for the advice.
It will be nice to not have this problem with the 90 gallon, now that i know how to stop it.
If you cannot get an RO/DI unit right now, what I would suggest getting is one of these... Tap Water Filter
This will remove a bunch of dissolved solids from your water and making it cleaner than your normal tap.
This will remove a bunch of dissolved solids from your water and making it cleaner than your normal tap.
