Looking at UV filter for 750g System

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
If there is already a disease present, if it were me, I'd buy (or make) a separate siphon for the diseased tank, and use it until the disease was gone, then just bleach it..
Of course I'm retired and live on a fixed income.
But even back in the old days when I was working I had a separate siphon for each line of tanks on sumps that were never transferred back-n-forth
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I made the above siphon out of an old plastic isopropyl alcohol bottle an some extra hardware store 1" plastic tubes for a couple bucks, so compared to a few hundred for a UV unit with questionable efficacy ......especially on a tank as small as, and ease to deal with like a 75 gal.......
 
Here's a definitive article on UV sterilization.

You are probably looking for Level 1 Sterlization with a Category A UV sterilizer. Here's the chart from the article:
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The faster the flow rate, the more wattage you will need to accomplish the same thing. If you went with 5500 gph, you would need 156 Watts. Of course, each UV sterilizer has its own recommended flow rates.

I run a 40W UV sterilizer on the return end of an FX-6. It's worked out well for us. I will be running two 120W UVs on the return ends of two Ultima II 4,000s. I went with the Lifeguard QL series which was one of the first to use quartz bulbs.
 
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The higher the watt the better the kill possibility.
But at 1800 gallons per hour whatever passes thru the unit will spend maybe only a few seconds of detention time in the UV unit.
Most bacteria need at least 10 seconds of exposure to the light to get their DNA scrambled.
Many protozoa (i.e. Ick) need longer exposure under the lamp because of their more complex cell walls.
There are a number of other "rubs" here.
Many protozoa and bacteria live in tandem with detritus, and detritus needs to be filtered out before entering the UV unit for it to be effective.
So if pathogens get caught in the filter with detritus before entering the UV unit.........
Another problem is that many bacteria live inside the gut of fish (bloat), or in lesions on the fish (HLLE), and only became problematic if the fish are under stress, so these pathogens may never enter a UV unit.
What disease are you attempting to eliminate?

i don’t know if it’s gram positive or negative - something killed l14/sailfin cat and partially blinded a mono - i think the mono has responded to general cure -

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Here's a definitive article on UV sterilization.

You are probably looking for Level 1 Sterlization with a Category A UV sterilizer. Here's the chart from the article:
View attachment 1450231

The faster the flow rate, the more wattage you will need to accomplish the same thing. If you went with 5500 gph, you would need 156 Watts. Of course, each UV sterilizer has its own recommended flow rates.

I run a 40W UV sterilizer on the return end of an FX-6. It's worked out well for us. I will be running two 120W UVs on the return ends of two Ultima II 4,000s. I went with the Lifeguard QL series which was one of the first to use quartz bulbs.

thanks! i’ll probably plumb them both together and run in a series at 1800gph (what lifeguard aquatics recommend)

the unit is so big it only fits under my big tank -

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got stuff progressing -

made space for them today -

got one loaded up with bulb

my plumbing bits are somewhere lost in the snow in the back of a UPS truck ?

need one bulb too -

one came with a broken quartz sleeve other came with no bulb ?

maybe couple weeks -

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all the pieces came together -

quartz sleeves are delicate - broke two....

got 180watts running at 1800gph ?

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