I know he uses pure london tap water so cant be much different to mine as mine is the same. If what you say is the answer then how can i fix this as i really would like another but need to be sure everything will be safe.
Looking for some help about African tigerfish
- Thread starter FishMad90
- Start date
I know he uses pure london tap water so cant be much different to mine as mine is the same. If what you say is the answer then how can i fix this as i really would like another but need to be sure everything will be safe.
IF you are using the same water AND it tests the same then obviously that isn't it. But if you think that just cause you both use tap water that the water's the same then you can be sadly mistaken. A neglected tank may have conductivity higher then 2000, while a well maintained tank may have the same as tap (could be low as 200, high as 800 -all depends on your area ).
All you can do is rule out possibilities. I didn't go buy a conductivity meter cause I had a pocket full of extra money, I bought one to rule out the possibility that I was shocking my fish. I got tired of grasping for explanations so instead of blaming it on something I didn't monitor, I started monitoring it so I KNEW that it could likely or unlikely be the cause.
IF it was this kind of shock the fix is simple, match the numbers. Dunk the probe where the ATF is happy at, and match your tank number to that number. I have really hard water. I use RO to bring conductivity down. IF I needed to bring it up I'd add tap water or buffer with aragonite.
Like I said all you can do is rule out possibilities. I'm not saying this is what is killing your fish, but if you don't know, it's not ruled out, and all we can do as hobbyists is try our best to rule things out, monitoring the numbers can usually rule stuff out. Most unknown deaths get lumped into a category like PH shock, this way maybe you could at least rule that out.
All you can do is rule out possibilities. I didn't go buy a conductivity meter cause I had a pocket full of extra money, I bought one to rule out the possibility that I was shocking my fish. I got tired of grasping for explanations so instead of blaming it on something I didn't monitor, I started monitoring it so I KNEW that it could likely or unlikely be the cause.
IF it was this kind of shock the fix is simple, match the numbers. Dunk the probe where the ATF is happy at, and match your tank number to that number. I have really hard water. I use RO to bring conductivity down. IF I needed to bring it up I'd add tap water or buffer with aragonite.
Like I said all you can do is rule out possibilities. I'm not saying this is what is killing your fish, but if you don't know, it's not ruled out, and all we can do as hobbyists is try our best to rule things out, monitoring the numbers can usually rule stuff out. Most unknown deaths get lumped into a category like PH shock, this way maybe you could at least rule that out.
^ he explained the same thing to me and me and my buddy are splitting the cost of a conductivity tester pretty soon, seems like its a pretty important parameter. Feeding certain freeze dried foods ive heard can raise it pretty quick (like brine shrimp cubes), while frozen food least effects conductivity.
DB, do you think thats true? Its what an old aquarist told me and since my own TATF death incident ive stopped feeding any sort of freeze dried other then pellet after i had brought up what you told me about conductivity
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DB, do you think thats true? Its what an old aquarist told me and since my own TATF death incident ive stopped feeding any sort of freeze dried other then pellet after i had brought up what you told me about conductivity
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I'd believe it. Foods like that end up in the filter, no way around it. I'd guess numbers would go up. The conductivity can give you an idea of the "build up" in the water. Once you get one and start taking readings from tap and tank you'll understand what I mean. Some people base water change schedules on Nitrates, but this just gives you something else to look at. Some of my tanks were 3 times tap. By keeping the number around tap you can flop fish from tank to tank and they don't even miss meals anymore.
I used to have issues moving fish from grow out tanks (less waterchanges higher conduuctivity) to drip fed tanks (lower conductivity) there was always a transitioning period and the fish seemed really stressed, match up the numbers and it seems much less stressful on them.
I used to have issues moving fish from grow out tanks (less waterchanges higher conduuctivity) to drip fed tanks (lower conductivity) there was always a transitioning period and the fish seemed really stressed, match up the numbers and it seems much less stressful on them.
Oh another thing I forgot to mention. When you catch them try to minimize the chasing. They get exhausted sprinting around the tank and will exhaust themselves to death. I've found the quicker you catch them the faster the recovery period.
Bags or clear pitcher I was told is best, that goes for most fish though netting is much more stressful
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So what you are saying is i should get a conductivity meter. Can you post me a link to one so i can have a look. I have never used or heard of them.
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American Marine is the kind I was recommended. Pretty good investment considering they are cheaper then an ATF (at least over here....lol)
Like I said, this may or may not be the cause, BUT, IF you do have a meter, at least you can rule out another "could be" as a cause.......
Like I said, this may or may not be the cause, BUT, IF you do have a meter, at least you can rule out another "could be" as a cause.......
