Making Caves

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mmm.... Sorry WyldFya, I'm not aggreeing with you. When I made my backgrounds, I never let the mortar go completely dry. I kept it moist by spraying it with water from a mist gun 4 - 6 times a day. Plus I did the mortar/plastering phase inside the empty tank, so that I could cover the open end of the tank with a towel to keep the humidity as high as possible around the curing bachground. After a week of "misting" I filled the tanks and let the rest of the curing happen submerged. You can try and scratch it... No chance... Bruce Lee himselfs couldn't scratch my backgrounds...

I think Chuck Norris can though... He'll use his beard! :grinno:
 
Well, when I made mine, I allowed it to fully cure for a month. Then submerged it in my tank. When I went to take it out, I didn't think it would be weak enough that it would just crumble... but it did. In my personal experience they will break apart under standard curing. If you want to test it, take a patio block, and soak it in water, put it on your steps on a slant and put pressure, it will snap like nothing. Try another that has not been soaked it won't break anywhere near as easy. Trust me it isn't that hard to break concrete, or mortar.
 
Having worked with concrete most my life I'd like to chime in. When curing concrete its imperative to keep the concrete moist with water. If the concrete is not kept moist during the curing process it will dry to quickly and become very brittle. This is probably why yours crumbled. It was cured improperly. Next point, when newly cured concrete is placed under water it increases the curing process and makes the concrete much harder and stronger. As for cinder blocks due to there make up and air volume in the mix they are much weaker then properly cured concrete. But as for concrete a 1/4 to 1/2" thick properly cured is very solid and rock hard. As stated in earlier post not even a chisel will pound through it easily. Also if acrylic fortifier was used in the mix the concrete is even stronger. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Interesting, the instructions on my mortar mentioned nothing of keeping it moist. Learn something new every day... like not to trust the instructions on my mortar from HD. :irked:
 
So how long should you wait before placing the newly cured concrete under water? Also do you guys have any pics of how you made your backgrounds?
 
troybernard, as I stated earlier, I normally just "mist" wet my backgrounds 5 - 7 times a day with a mist gun for a week before I submerge it. You can check the droplets that form on the background from misting for any signs that indicate that the mist/water is dissolving the mortar/cement. Once the background doesn't dissolve into the water anymore, it should be safe to submerge it. Curing still takes place underwater. Oh and remember to empty the tank and refill it with fresh water every 2 - 3 days. You need to do this to determine whether or not your ph has stabilised. Once your ph is stable, you can start to cycle.

As for the latex question... I think if anyone from "Back to nature" or any other professional rock maker is following this thread they must be worried. I came across this site http://www.modeltrain.com/rubbermold/rubbermold.html by accident the other day. I'm just waiting for payday, so that I can buy some latex and attempt a diy background for my 80G using this method. I recon the secret to amazing 3d backgrounds is going to be out soon. And the days are numbered for old style diy styro/cement backgrounds.
 
WyldFya;548305; said:
Do you plan to seal the mortar with an epoxy paint? or polyurethane?
Click to expand...

Epoxy and poly are 100% toxic, I would stay as far away from these as possible if you are looking to seal the mortar.
Another way is super scuplty clay, easy to work with and bakes real easy in your oven. I am not aware of any toxic effects this may have, but I did use it to create a cave in my 200 gallon tank and never had any unusual fatalities in the tank, but still not 100% certain of this (any harmful effects that it may contain). Just because nothing died does not mean that it leaked anything that was harmful to the fish, but if you do decide to use the stuff I would look into to see if it is safe defore trying.
 
Polyurethane is toxic only in its liquid form, once cured it becomes non-toxic (and food safe according to Minwax), as is the same with epoxy paints. Why do you think plywood tanks are painted with epoxy paint. :screwy:
 
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