Yes sir I sure have. Replaced both heaters two weeks ago with two new Eheim Jaguar 250’s.
Marathon battle with flashing
- Thread starter snake_charmer
- Start date
Just an update. Finishing up a 4 week treatment of ich that was spotted on 2 clown loaches. Flashing appears to be reduced but I did notice a clown loach and frontosa flash after a 40% water change today. That’s all I’ve noticed today though so I hesitantly want to say there’s been an improvement but also feel like I cannot continue treatment for much longer?
Again, my fear is that ich was either a secondary infection as to what was causing the flashing or B stoppage by the treatment too early without fully seeing a 100% elimination of the flashing could result in a re infestation. How long can treatment be continued? A month seems like a long time. Although, I should also note that it took quite a while to get up to the 3ppm salinity level and 85f+ temperature in the tank.
Thanks
Again, my fear is that ich was either a secondary infection as to what was causing the flashing or B stoppage by the treatment too early without fully seeing a 100% elimination of the flashing could result in a re infestation. How long can treatment be continued? A month seems like a long time. Although, I should also note that it took quite a while to get up to the 3ppm salinity level and 85f+ temperature in the tank.
Thanks
Water sample from tank shows 0ppm Ammonia. So Prime water conditioner is doing its job and thus would explain the heavier flashing post water changes. However, still doesn’t solve the ongoing flashing that occurs in between water changes if it’s 0ppm. I’ve been instructed that if I decide to finally throw in the towel and sell off all fish to run 1 part bleach to 10 parts water to kill off all living organisms in the tank/filtration system to avoid transferring the issue to any future tanks.
Last edited:
The biggest problem that I see which stands out like a neon sign are your water parameter readings which read ph 7.0, alkalinity 70ppm, and hardness 70ppm.
Those values are waaaay too low for frontosas and thar’s likely why they are irritated, flashing, and dying.
They need a ph value of 8.0 and above. Hardness and alkalinity should be closer to double or triple or even more than the values you have now. You need to add some crushed coral or oyster shell into your filters or raise discus fish
