Medicating Rays for Bacterial Infection

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tank125

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 20, 2005
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Connecticut
Today I began a treatment for an unknown bacterial infection that my rays have. It is not uncommon, but may be deadly. The symptoms are as follows:

Ray 1 (11" Flower Female ~ 2 year plus captive):
>>> inflammation of the fin edge, white with redness at the corners of each back fin. Normally the fins are "body color", this symptom is what frightens me the most, there is mention of this another thread

Ray 2 (8" Flower Female ~ 10 mo captive):
>>> erosion of the disc edge, very thin, white and damaged, slight not major

Ray 3 (7" Flower Male ~ 10 mo captive):
>>> erosion of the disc edge, very noticeable. basically the disc edge is not body color but white and seemingly paper thin and jagged

Ray 4 (8" MM Female ~ Captive bred, about 1.25 years old):
>>> very slight inflammation of the fin tips, no disc erosion

Tigrinus Cat (14-15" ~ 3 year captive):
>>> not presenting any symptoms

Refer to this thread as well, I believe it to be the same bacterium:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207827

They are NOT flicking as was described by other keepers with similar symptoms otherwise.


Medication:

Nitrofurazone (available from Jehmco in NJ or as Binox by Jungle Labs):
1 tsp per 100 gallons daily for 10 days with daily 1/3 volume water changes prior to treatments

Temp @ 82F. I am NOT raising temp to 90F as suggested by some. I feel that it will only unduly stress the rays and catfish by lowering the dissolved oxygen level. Furthermore it will increase the reproductive rate of the pathogenic bacteria prior to the Nitrofurazones' action. Nitrofurazone takes 5-10 days to work. In that time I do not think that it is wise to increase the amount of bacteria in the system and within the rays. Unless it is proven that the bacteria has a temperature threshold less than 90F it seems unnecessary.



***Possible causes***
--first assumption is use of live crayfish as feeders, although housed and fed out, it is impossible to sterilize them so I should not have used them, they could easily be vectors for pathogenic bacteria. JUST A GUESS
--present from arrival/importation and relatively dormant, but I cannot explain why a sudden onset because I cannot determine a new stressor for the fish
 
i Q my crays for atleast 2 weeks... i feed jungle parasite and medicated pellets for a week also dose them with paraguard and then power feed for a week or 2 with hikari pellets


Good luck with the rays.... keep the thread updated... Will you be adding any salt to the mix???
 
Without the temperature increase you wont get rid of this bacteria. Why not raise the temp and add extra O2? It has worked for just about everyone that has solved this problem. I would remove the catfish if raise the temp for sure. Even 86-88 is much better then just leaving at 82 I assure you it will not go way at that temp, we tried treating for over 2 weeks at low temp with meds and nothing.
 
What does a teaspoon work out to for a milligram dose. Still having problems with mine with the recommended dose of binox and a change out every 3 days. Will update on my thread today. Good luck
 
csx4236;2779452; said:
Without the temperature increase you wont get rid of this bacteria. Why not raise the temp and add extra O2? It has worked for just about everyone that has solved this problem. I would remove the catfish if raise the temp for sure. Even 86-88 is much better then just leaving at 82 I assure you it will not go way at that temp, we tried treating for over 2 weeks at low temp with meds and nothing.

Noted, and I trust your opinion/experience. I will raise temp to 86-88 in 4-5 days if no change in symptoms. Sidenote, the tig was treated with Maracyn II back in April with a temp of 86F with no ill effects.

Yes salt in system. Tough to gauge because of w/c's, but about 10#/300gallons.

O2 was increased in system as well. Significantly.
 
Am I correct in thinking that there was a swimming pool test kit you could get to test salt content in Parts Per Thousand or something like that?

Would definetly be nice to KNOW salt content in times like these when doing frequent WC with large doses of salt.
 
tank125;2779810; said:
Noted, and I trust your opinion/experience. I will raise temp to 86-88 in 4-5 days if no change in symptoms. Sidenote, the tig was treated with Maracyn II back in April with a temp of 86F with no ill effects.

Yes salt in system. Tough to gauge because of w/c's, but about 10#/300gallons.

O2 was increased in system as well. Significantly.


maybe the key is to get the bacteria in over drive.... as they reproduce the meds kick them out...
 
I'm not a ray expert, but I brought in some Rays a year ago and after about 2 weeks, one of the rays disk started to turn white. The disk looked as if you took sand paper to it. The edge of the disk was all ripped and his little "feet" were starting to rot. I added binox to the pond and redosed and within 2 weeks he was starting to improve. Within a month, you couldn't tell he ever had a problem. Only one of the rays had this problem. Not sure if that helps, but I am a true believer in Binox.
 
N-E Cichlids;2782015; said:
I'm not a ray expert, but I brought in some Rays a year ago and after about 2 weeks, one of the rays disk started to turn white. The disk looked as if you took sand paper to it. The edge of the disk was all ripped and his little "feet" were starting to rot. I added binox to the pond and redosed and within 2 weeks he was starting to improve. Within a month, you couldn't tell he ever had a problem. Only one of the rays had this problem. Not sure if that helps, but I am a true believer in Binox.


This is the description I was trying to achieve. For mine, the feet are "rotting", but it is very mild and at the tips. I originally thought it was just irritation from pushing with them.
 
Day 2/Dose 2

Fish are acting normal.

I am wondering about those that promote 90F if they ran the course of treatment with a daily dose of Binox or Nitrofurazone? Or if they dosed every other day or every third day? 90F is generally reserved for Discus or certain parasites that have a temperature threshold.
 
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