Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

Jgray152

Feeder Fish
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Dec 23, 2006
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Another test for me. Im going to see if I can get this to work with a canister filter setup possibly. I have ideas. I would rather have this under the tank than above it.

Great Idea!
 

SantaMonica

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2008
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JS: Glad you want to build one... update us with pics and test results please :)

i read that the cleaning actually gets the phosphates and nitrates 'out of the system'...but... even before cleaning, the nitrates and phosphates are no longer in soluble form 'in the water' so the fish are not exposed to them. i read that the cleaning is the expulsion (the 8oz bit) from the system but just the growth of the algae is enough to 'sink' the unwanted compounds.
You are correct... the "growing" of the algae is what takes "soluble" nitrate and phosphate out of the water and puts it into the cells of the algae. But the algae would need to keep on growing forever in order to keep it going. And as it grows thicker, the outer layers start shading the light from the reaching the inner layers, causing the inner layers to die and release nitrate and phosphate back into the water. That's why you have to take the screen to the sink and physically remove the algae.

Zenn... that's that's the stuff. Thicker the better.

Jgray: How does the cannister fit into the plan?
 

rucus

Candiru
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Oct 24, 2007
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So if you don't clean it at the right time,or let it go too long without a good cleaning, the dead Algae under the thick outside algae will leach back into the tank in the form of nitrate and phosphate?
 

stixx

Feeder Fish
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Aug 27, 2008
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Just a thought every time you wipe off the screen wouldn't you be able to add it to house plants as a source of food.and I look forward to othes results as I also hope to start one soon as done restocking my tanks
 

Jgray152

Feeder Fish
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Dec 23, 2006
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Jgray: How does the cannister fit into the plan?
Basically, I'll take a 6 gallon or smaller bucket like I have for my canister filter (which is yet to be completed) and instead of allowing the canister to fully purge, only allow it to purge to a water depth of 4-6". This "canister" will be air locked allowing water to flow down the screen the way we want and the oxygen it gets will be from the water entering.

Intake at the top and output on the bottom. Water pressure on the intake side causing the canister to build up with air pressure and have a water depth of 4-6" causing the water at the bottom of the canister to be pushed out through the output at the bottom and to the tank.

Insert some flexible super bright LED strip waterproof lighting inside and you should be good to go.

Obveously more testing and theory sketching and equations need to be done but this will allow canister fans like me to do this. It will be quieter and sealed so no worries of moisture under the tank. No additional pumps or tanks required. 5 gallon of smaller bucket will work as well. As long as its able to be sealed and the flow is controlled for smaller systems.

So if you don't clean it at the right time,or let it go too long without a good cleaning, the dead Algae under the thick outside algae will leach back into the tank in the form of nitrate and phosphate?
I believe so but wouldn't new algae on top just absorb it?
 

rucus

Candiru
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Oct 24, 2007
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The new algae on top you would think would eat it up. Hmmm I want to hear from someone actually using this on a FW system. This looks like something I may be interested in. Just want to know more about before I do it.
 

SantaMonica

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Oct 9, 2008
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Santa Monica, CA, USA
zenn: Up to 1/4" holes are ok. Matter of fact, an advanced technique is to tie/glue/attach two screens together like pancakes to get double thickness; really give the algae a good place to attach to.

rucus: Correct. Once a week is recommended, per side. But the strong the lighting is, the more the light can get through to the inside.

stixx: Yes, and you can also feed it to herbivores, although that does not get the nitrate and phosphate out of the system.

jgray: LED's are still in testing... if you use them you should makes sure they are "plant-grow" ones, with at least 1000 lumens, preferably 2000 to 3000.

I believe so but wouldn't new algae on top just absorb it?
Yes but the nutrients are still going back into the water before being re-absorbed; thus your water's nitrate and phosphate readings will rise. Scrubber screens must be cleaned once a week, also to kill the pods which will eat the algae.
 
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