Metal stand - Gap between tank and stand!!!

[MichaelAngelo]

your not the only one who has become alarmed:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=147550&highlight=steel

from the thread:



so relax, level the legs and enjoy your tank

I know, but the bow isn't along the entire length of the guy's 75... and mine's a 135 and the manufacturer message even said that the longer the tank the more it needs support down the middle.

 

[12 Volt Man]

thats normal. glass tanks only need well supported corners.

despite popular belief. even the manufacturers will tell you this.

just because many people believe that the glass tank must be fully supported along the entire perimeter does not mean it is true.

its not.

now, for acrylic, well thats a totally different ball game.

 

[12 Volt Man]

know, but the bow isn't along the entire length of the guy's 75...

it probably is if he looks close enough. a gap is a gap, whether its 0.00001 mm or 5 feet

if I use a flashlight (to shine from behind to see the gap) on my steel stands today, I bet I would find the same thing..

 

[12 Volt Man]

from another thread on cichlidforum:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=126342&highlight=steel

This sounds like the metal tubular stand that I have always used. The manufacturers always suggest that you don't put any foam or plywood on the top and to just place the tank directly on the stand.
Looking at my 75, 50, and 35 gallon tanks, they all have gaps in the middle. They are only supported on the ends, and I have never had a failure in 15+ years of fishkeeping....

just trying to reassure you that your tank will be fine..

 

[Kaze]

checked the stand, it's bent in the middle.

Failures all around... I'm so pissed right now. I accomplished nothing today!!!

argghhh

Why would big al's scarborough ever sell me a bent metal stand?

Never go there, ever. I'm from Markham too and I never trust that store, they've sold so much defective stuff to me its not even funny.

 

[MichaelAngelo]

Hey guys, I appreciate all your help and a new development has come up!!!

Today my dad and I used shims to level the wooden cabinet stand (shimmed all round). Perfectly level! Starting filling with water, a quarter way up I noticed the bottom of the stand was warping upwards between each side the the middle:

(side pillar)____-----____(middle pillar)___------____(side pillar)

There were shims under the side pillar, middle pillar and side pillar.

The important part of it though, I noticed that the top rim and bottom rim of my tank isn't flat, it's CURVED as well!!! Curved as well!!!

What!?!?


Curved so that it's lower on each side... so it's the opposite curvage of the metal stand. Problems all 'round. This is serious annoying.

EDIT: or maybe I'm just crazy.

 

[Nemesis]

I have always been told not to use shims on stands. They can do more harm than good, like in your case. Also if one of the shims were to move it could be a catastrophe.

 

[hmt321]

I am not convinced you have a problem with the metal stand or the tank

Make sure that the metal stand is level from from front to back and left to right, only shim the legs. Make sure that your shims can't compress easily, hardwood (like oak) or pieces of PVC work great. If you are good with tools you may want to drill and tap a 1/2" bolt into each leg then adjustment will be easy. I would not try to adjust the stand after the tank is set on it, just get it level and fill it up.

If your tank makes good contact with the stand at all 4 corners you are good to go.

 

[vfc]

thats normal. glass tanks only need well supported corners.

despite popular belief. even the manufacturers will tell you this.

just because many people believe that the glass tank must be fully supported along the entire perimeter does not mean it is true.

its not.

now, for acrylic, well thats a totally different ball game.

12 Volt Man,
Still using that picture of a 12" wide tank on blocks to prove a tank can be supported on the sides only. The OP has an 18" wide tank; the downward force on the bottom is 33% greater (I am assuming the tank depths are the same).

If that tank in your picture was 1" wide, it would be strong enough to use as a bridge girder. However, if the tank was 36" wide, the downward force would be so great that the side panels would either be bowing out or in just before it shatters.

 

[MichaelAngelo]

12 Volt Man,
Still using that picture of a 12" wide tank on blocks to prove a tank can be supported on the sides only. The OP has an 18" wide tank; the downward force on the bottom is 33% greater (I am assuming the tank depths are the same).

If that tank in your picture was 1" wide, it would be strong enough to use as a bridge girder. However, if the tank was 36" wide, the downward force would be so great that the side panels would either be bowing out or in just before it shatters.

huh???