MFK PLEASE HELP ME!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
for future reference to everyone.

all 100% silicone is mildew resistant by natural composition. The reason GE and few other's have it on there bottle's and not the others is a copyright deal. And they use it as a marketing scheme.

Years ago there was only acrylic caulking and that stuff will grow mildew and mold. So to justify the price increase of silicone over regular caulking to the general public. GE's marketing group devised this copyrighted plan to bash the reg caulk on its ability to grow mold and mildew.

And long story short the reg caulk guys always put paintable on there's because 100% silicone isn't.

I currently have 4 tanks with ge2 black silicone in them. GE2 has the so called highly toxic mold BS in it. 1 125g tank has 14 caulking tubes of Ge2 in it.
1 tube for back pane replacement
4 tubes for spoon beaded reseal of entire tank.
1 tube for reseal of sump
6 tubes that i covered the entire bottom with for a bare bottom but with decor to it effect.
2 tubes used in making rock formations that hold plants.

up and running for 1yr with 3 8-9" yellow cuda's, 1 ray, 2 unknown disc characins. And no problems.
 
This thread makes me glad I like sand.
 
I thought of another idea-resin!Paint the hole bottom with an epoxy resin!Go super thick and you will be good.If you decide to take a sledge to it-pm me and Ill see if I can come up with a use for it.I always kinda wanted a monitor lizard.Are you sure its toxic?The chemicals I mean?Just sounds wierd.Call some glass shops for advice.If there is a will-there is a way.RESIN! The same stuff everyone uses in ponds-or fiberglass may work.I just would hate to add more crap onto the stuff you already got in there and wind up with an even worse mess.Then you will definitely have to smash it.Try the solvent idea and let it eat all the crap off and then clean it and reseal it.I just cant see any other options.
 
look Riv:http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
sounds like this stuff will remove anything:
This product removes: latex based foams, polyurethane foams, expansion foams, polyurethane glues, silicones, latex caulks, construction adhesives, acrylic latex caulks & more! Cleans: Tile, porcelain, stainless steel, hand tools, marble, hard surfaces, hands, wood, plastic, ceramic, carpet, vinyl flooring, fabric, foam application equipment, metal, Formica, glass, stone, granite, fiberglass & more! For wet sealants (silicones, caulks & foams), for dry sealants (silicones, caulk & foams). Motsenbockers Lift Off Silicone, Latex Caulk and Foam Sealant Remover is a water-based and biodegradable remover that is safe for both the user and environment, while being very effective on both fresh & cured sealants. It is a Green Cross Certified patented formulation by Scientific Certification Systems (SCS). The product is both convenient and easy-to-use on just about every surface.

  • Patented formulation is safe, easy to use and effective.
  • Water-Based and biodegradable formulation is Green Cross Certified by SCS.
  • Safe to use on any surface including clothes, carpeting, fabric and upholestry.
  • Works on fresh and cured silicone latex caulk and foam sealants.
  • Eco-Friendly Formulation is safe for the asset, the user and the environment and is considered an Eco-Options product.
  • MFG Brand Name : Motsenbocker's Lift Off
  • MFG Model # : 411-45
  • MFG Part # : 411-45
  • Use Location : Interior/Exterior
 
Remove the bottom pane of glass, use a cheese cutting wire to cut the silicone between the tile and glass. Reinstall the pane of glass to the bottom of the tank.
 
OK,
B4 I throw in the towel I'm going to give it one last shot.
I'm going to drain the tank, dry it out, and try one last coat of this stuff.
It'll prob take 2 wks, 1 to completely dry, and 1 to let it cure again.
We'll see what happens.
-Wish me luck.
 
i would just cover it in black silicon once it's dry, you know that's safe....
 
get yourself some spiderwire in a tackleshop. Cut a length of it off the spool. Now all you need to do is get it under a corner of one of the tiles and move the spiderwire from side to side in a sawing action. It will cut through the silicone like a hot knife through butter. Don't use chemicals that will dissolve the silicone. All that does for you is weaken /dissolve the silicone that's keeping your tank together
 
"I'm going to drain the tank, dry it out, and try one last coat of this stuff."

Why do you think it will work this time?

I'd try cutting a piece of pond liner for the bottom, allowing an inch on the sides for sealing.
 
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