Modified filter

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
hawilipino;4515964; said:
you should've put the biomax.."ceramic rings"..on the other side of your filter cartridge..the water flowing through the rings has to be as clear as possible..any "gunk" buildup in the rings will cause them to malfunction..just a fyi

Yeah... just did that after I found fish poop in my rings...:screwy:
 
~ocean;4519190; said:
Taking all the biomedia = taking away most BB (benificial bacteria) so don't do that.

A powerhead would work to some extent but i'm not clear - are you trying to fit a powerhead right in front of the intake?

Iam just wondering if you would get the same out come if you put a large powerhead on the input tube so it forced water in thrugh the tube. I know your not dont need to take out the biomedia just wondering how you changed the filter without taking it out all the way it looks like it would fall in place of the filter when you took it out to change it making it hard to put back
 
I think the power head might work, but I'm not positive on that.
There's a power box that can be manually attached to the filter, so I removed that and quickly put on a stronger power box. That way the filter pumped the water out once again. The filter is a HOB hang on back filter - so it was easy to modifiy
 
~ocean;4521369; said:
I think the power head might work, but I'm not positive on that.
There's a power box that can be manually attached to the filter, so I removed that and quickly put on a stronger power box. That way the filter pumped the water out once again. The filter is a HOB hang on back filter - so it was easy to modifiy

What do you mean by "a stronger power box"? Did you use a motor and impeller from a larger model of Topfin HOB? I can't imagine anything else that would fit...

Where did you get the new motor? A new replacement motor/impeller generally will cost you more than the filter, especially when you are dealing with economy brand filters.
 
I applied Neodymium magnets around the outside of the motor inside the box to literally create a AC + electricity motor (ac= alternating current). It thus spins the propeller wickedly fast. The slip of this AC can be calculated with the formula;
S=(Ns minus Ns) divided by Ns.

Ns= Rotational speed, in revolutions per minute.S = Normalised Slip, 0 to 1.
 
~ocean;4521892; said:
I applied Neodymium magnets around the outside of the motor inside the box to literally create a AC + electricity motor (ac= alternating current). It thus spins the propeller wickedly fast. The slip of this AC can be calculated with the formula;
S=(Ns minus Ns) divided by Ns.

Ns= Rotational speed, in revolutions per minute.S = Normalised Slip, 0 to 1.

Are you kidding? :ROFL:
 
not really. It actually works. BTW Neodymium magnets are the strongest magents in the world and a good chunk can cost over 100$. In smaller sizes, they are still expensive, but not as expensive as a new filter.
 
~ocean;4522052; said:
not really. It actually works. BTW Neodymium magnets are the strongest magents in the world and a good chunk can cost over 100$. In smaller sizes, they are still expensive, but not as expensive as a new filter.

Where's Dr. Joe when you need him? :nilly:
 
~ocean;4521892; said:
I applied Neodymium magnets around the outside of the motor inside the box to literally create a AC + electricity motor (ac= alternating current). It thus spins the propeller wickedly fast. The slip of this AC can be calculated with the formula;
S=(Ns minus Ns) divided by Ns.

Ns= Rotational speed, in revolutions per minute.S = Normalised Slip, 0 to 1.

Hahaha awesome. there's a bit of an incongruity between this and your first post.
 
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