more PVC overflow help

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AndrewMack

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 8, 2007
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Fleming Island FL
OK in this picture I wanted to know if i could drill a ton of wholes in the intake part of the overflow(black spots in pic) so that not just the top of the tank is getting water pulled. also does the height of the intake tube determine the water level in the tank? i like my tanks to stay topped off all the time, and what GPH pump should i look for using 1" PVC for a 55g tank?

overflow11.jpg
 
I'm not an expert but i'm sure you can't, dude. the lowest hole that is higher than the T-joint outside the tank would become to be your water level when your power goes out. End result would be a near-empty tank, an overflowed sump. and an instant in-door river. This design works for surface-only intakes. There is,however, another design that would work by sucking water near the tank floor if that's what you want.

As for your return motor, play safe and pick a low flow rate pump. This also depends on how much water would your sump hold. Pick a strong motor and your overflow pipe might not be able to overflow enough to keep the sump water level ample, resulting in a dry sump. try a 700lph, but don't trust me on this as some pumps in the market lie about their max output. If you can, do trial and error.
For reference...
I'm using the same overflow design.
My pipe: 2"
my motor: the box says 1,200 lph (but observing the actual product work made me doubt it)
note: sump systems tend to evaporate at a faster rate so regularly check the water level on both your tank and your sump...especially the sump.

Hope i was of any help.
Keep us updated and good luck! :)
 
No, it wont work with the small holes for the reason stated above. The elbow you're pointing to does regulate the water height. If you notice water going above that elbow you either have to get the air out of it, get rid of restrictions that my be below it, or slow the pump flow. Those overflows can handle 600 gph so one should be fine on a 55. Personally I would only flow about 200gph on a 55 (unless it's for fish that enjoy current).
 
well this seems like to much work, ill slap a pair of HOBs and i wont have to worry about overflowing my tank or sump or the water level ETC>
 
it really isn't as complicated as you think. What are you confused about? Maybe we can help
 
well i dont understand how the overflow will stop sucking water if the power goes out. and i have a 55g tank and i keep my water all the way to the rim so it always looks full, wich means i gotta make the intake of the overflow all the way to the top of the tank, and if any fish splash the surface then air will get into the overflow
 
The top of the intake elbow has dictates where the water level is. In the event of a power outage the water in the tank will continue to overflow until the water level goes past the bottom of the elbow. Remember overflows aren't meant to suck water from the tank, its only suppose to flow excess water from the tank into the sump.

Your problem about air getting into the overflow because of fish -> i just suck the airout using the checkvalve once a week.

if you're worried that the overflow is only taking water from the surface put in powerheads to blow any poop and what not.
 
You'll have the same air problem with a HOB overflow. The answer is either an aqualifter or just sucking air out of a check valve periodically.

However, on my 265 I rarely have to do that, and I promise they can make more of a wave (splash) than any fish in a 55:D
 
wont water come out of the check valve? and how would i make it so my tank stays FULL at all times, how many GPH pump would i need?
 
no, make the check valve so you can suck out, but can't blow in. There is little to no pressure so the water won't come out of the valve. if you want your tank to stay FULL at all times, put the top of the elbow where you want the water level to be. I would flow 200gph in a 55 when using a wet/dry, unless your fish need high current.


You will notice the fluctuation in the water level in the sump, not the tank.
 
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