Movable Monster?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
dmopar74;1345726; said:
an 8x4x2 tank should be easy to get into a house being on its side its only 2ft wide, 4ft tall, 8ft long(note to those who dont read fully, i mean turned sideways). it would be no harder than moving a couch or bed, except for the weight. anything taller than 30" and you will run into problems with doorways, so stick with 24".
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I agree.... if you have a straight access path from your door to where the tank goes. Corners are tough, and DIY tanks are HEAVY. It took 4 people to barely get my DIY 5.5x3x2 into my house. There's also the issue of transport. Just like to think ahead - I'd hate to move and have to leave my tank outside!
 
tunerX;1345663; said:
This is the idea I am using for mine.

http://www.jonolavsakvarium.com/eng_diy/2200litre/2200litres.html

This is a link to my thread, that I started on Cichlid-forum. I haven't updated lately. I am just about finished with my monster sump setup and will be doing the test fill this weekend. I used 3/8" bolts. Breaking it down will take some work but it can be broken down no problem.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=153460&highlight=519
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Pretty similar to what I sketched at work yesterday! thanks for the link ;)
 
basslover34;1345902; said:
Do you have to turn side ways to walk in through the doors of your house... or are you all small people LOL :ROFL: I'm 2 feet wide including my arms
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LOL, yeah but you aren't 8x2x2! :p
 
basslover34;1344615; said:
Thats a really interesting post... I like the MFK plug to LOL ;)
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Hey, I do what I can.

I have to contact BTL and ask them what would be best for the viewing area. I don't know if I should cut the material out where the viewing area will be or have them do it to prevent fraying. I'm afraid their seam will not allow the glass to sit tight against it.
 
cvermeulen;1344472; said:
Just had a thought... for breakable and re-assemblable seams, you could make each wall with T-nuts so it could be taken apart easily, and then use a pond liner. How reliable is a pond liner-to-window type of seal? how is this usually accomplished? I've seen a number of people with the intent to do this, but I can't recall ever seeing the details of how you'd seal the window in place with the pond liner.
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The only example of sealing a window to pond liner that I've seen was a guy that used acrylic and just drilled holes in the acrylic and used stainless steel bolts to hold it on while using silicone as a "gasket"
 
Arthur;1347022; said:
The only example of sealing a window to pond liner that I've seen was a guy that used acrylic and just drilled holes in the acrylic and used stainless steel bolts to hold it on while using silicone as a "gasket"
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Yeah... well as long as silicone is supported, it makes a really good gasket. I've read that acrylic can be prone to cracks around bolt holes though. I think most of this is due to expansion and contraction at temp extremes, which a tank obviously should not see.

I have a hard time getting a warm fuzzy feeling from pond liner with a window.

I guess you could always fiberglass and finish the edges of all your "walls" and silicone them together with bolts, much like a glass tank is constructed. That's a hell of a lot of silicone joining to get right though.
 
tunerX;1345663; said:
This is the idea I am using for mine.

http://www.jonolavsakvarium.com/eng_diy/2200litre/2200litres.html

This is a link to my thread, that I started on Cichlid-forum. I haven't updated lately. I am just about finished with my monster sump setup and will be doing the test fill this weekend. I used 3/8" bolts. Breaking it down will take some work but it can be broken down no problem.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=153460&highlight=519
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Thanks again for the links, I finally just had time to fully read through both of them. Your 518 build is BEEFY man! I like it. Have you taken any more photos? It doesn't look like you're getting a helluva lot of construction feedback or encouragement from those CF guys ;) should have started the thread here!

I like your method a lot - particularly the hidden plumbing. I built a 200gal tank last spring, and learned a lot of things I would do slightly differently if I build another - one of which would be MORE PLUMBING... not to mention accessible plumbing - right now it's basically permanently hidden behind the tank, in a niche where the tank sits. I also like the two windows. I can't imagine anywhere I'd put a tank that large where both sides would be viewable, but if it'd be sweet if I could work the location out.

Anyways, now I want to go out and buy all the materials TOMORROW, but I need to focus my priorities for a while ;) it's winter so I have a lot of plans for my car. I also may not live in my current place that much longer, so this would be a *****y project to take on, only to move into a place that can't accomodate it! I can however, make drawings, source materials, and think about it, can't I? ;)

Current construction method: 5 panels, framed with 2x4's sheathed in ply (3/4 inside, whatever outside). Fiberglassed with 1 or 2 layers of chopped strand mat, and polyester resin, sanded, filled, etc. Sweetwater epoxy topcoat on all panels. Fasten all panels together with stainless steel Socket cap screws (can get them for free). Seal all seams with GE silicone 1.

If I went this route, I would probably go 4'x4'x8', with a 1" acrylic front window. I'd then stock it with rays and Aros. I'd love to put some HUGE plecos in there too, but rays vs plecs.... If the rays didn't work out I'd be tempted to go large cats and aros. I'd then take my current 200 DIY, fix the **** that bugs me, and see if I could find an H. Wyckii to put in it ;).
 
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