Move to safe stay with prime

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Well water .......ok in that case the most cost effective way to go would be to buy sodium thiosulfate in bulk. Really no need for Prime, or Safe, as they are designed to treat chloramine water, that contains ammonia. Up to you, just sayin ....

I have a sticky on this subject in the Set Up folder I think? You might want to check it out.
 
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RD. said:
If it was me, I would call and ask, then get a chlorine test kit and test yourself to ensure the info given is correct.
Click to expand...

I didn't even think of that. I'll look and see on the chlorine test kit
 
I'm switching to Safe very soon, expanding my entire basement into a fish room (in progress) means my costs in Prime would go very high.
 
RD. said:
Well water .......ok in that case the most cost effective way to go would be to buy sodium thiosulfate in bulk. Really no need for Prime, or Safe, as they are designed to treat chloramine water, that contains ammonia. Up to you, just sayin ....

I have a sticky on this subject in the Set Up folder I think? You might want to check it out.
Click to expand...

Would it still be considered well water ? My parents have well water but it's their well and not treated. It only contains whatever chemicals seep thru the ground. The water we get may be from a well but distributed to most of the town residents. I figure if I dose safe for the volume of of the 75 I should be good?
 
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You can't properly dose for the volume of anything, without knowing what you are dosing for. Make sense? If your chlorine residual is next to nothing, you may not even require a water conditioner, except possibly when they chlorine shock the system, or as the superintendent stated, when they repair a line. In those cases you may smell the chlorine in your water, so then hold off for a day or two before doing a water change. To be safe I would treat the tap water, but I would be buying the cheapest sodium thiosulfate water conditioner that money could buy. You really need to get a test kit or strips designed for chlorine. That will tell you what you need to know as far as the disinfectant levels in your tap water.
 
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Hello; It is my take that all tap water is sourced from some more or less natural source. My tap water is taken from the Powell River.
The local Coca-Cola company apparently has the rights to water which comes out of a limestone cave in the town of Cumberland Gap. They haul the water in stainless steel tankers a few miles to the plant in Middlesborough KY and it becomes bottled water.
Some places get water from surface sources such a lakes.

All these sources wind up being treated in some manner. I am fairly lucky in that my water company treats only with chlorine. I can go the "sodium thiosulfate in bulk" as RD suggests. It appears you may be able to also.

I have been following this thread but confess to losing track of the issues you may be having with your water. So if there is more to the water questions than it being treated with chlorine, then you probably should ignore my next comments. That my water from the tap is treated with only chlorine I use a storage method. I keep the tap water in containers for about four days + before using it for WC. (NOTE- I leave the tops open to the air while being stored. I also stuff a bit of polyester filter floss in the openings to keep the skeeters out. Can you guess how I learned to do that?) I have not used PRIME during WC for many years.
There is the issue of having several containers sitting about and the weight of picking them up. I consider these many gallons of water as my emergency water supply should some crisis happen.
Several members do not like this method for having water for WC and have said so. I have been doing it this way since the early 1980's and have found no notable problems.
 
OP your water comes from a public well system, it is similar to your parents private well, just much, much larger. Many public wells don't need to be treated with disinfectants like chlorine as long as they don't find indicator bacteria like coliforms .
When surface water from rivers, lakes, and reservoirs is used, some kind of disinfectant is always necessary.
In your situation, I wouldn't be using any chlorine or chloramine neutralizing product, unless you receive notice of a chlorine shock treatment, smell it in water, or from the tap.
If there has been a main break on your street or downstream from where your water comes from, a shock treatment would be required.
 
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RD. said:
Well water .......ok in that case the most cost effective way to go would be to buy sodium thiosulfate in bulk. Really no need for Prime, or Safe, as they are designed to treat chloramine water, that contains ammonia. Up to you, just sayin ....

I have a sticky on this subject in the Set Up folder I think? You might want to check it out.
Click to expand...

RD, so could I use this kit to test for any chlorine
Jed Pool Tools Inc 00-481 Standard Dual Test Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Pool-tools-00-481-Standard-Dual/dp/B0038YL4M8
I read the report fully and saw they stated they treat w chlorine if needed but it's not used all the time. I read your sticky. ( In 2 pgs right now). It's a read a few times to digest all the info. From what I get out of my report is no chlorimine...here's the pdf
http://boylstonwaterdistrict.org/docs/Boyl2015CCR.pdf
I ordered the safe already thinking it's a cheaper alternative. If I can use that test kit an no chlorine is present would dosing safe be a bad thing? Trying to wrap my brain around all the info and #s
 
That kit looks ok to me, Duane might know of a better product.

Just keep in mind that products such as Prime/Safe are reducing agents, which is why they react with oxidizing agents such as chlorine. When there is no chlorine left to reduce, these products will react with other substances, such as oxygen. So one doesn't want to get carried away, or in a closed system such as an aquarium 02 depletion can take place.

edited to add, Duane beat me to it.
 
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