My 765 gal tank...Part 1...
- Thread starter oftalmos
- Start date
I was thinking some more about your recirculation loop w/ the key valve on it in conjunction w/ the drain valves from the tank. Another possible solution that could be incorporated to make it a little easier is the following. Instead of the floats sitting in the sump compartments if it could be incorporated such that the floats had their own compartment that didn't fill up until power was lost. These essentially would be overflow compartments. Once they fill up the floats would rise and close the valves. I realize that this would require more space and is hard to include now, but it's possible it would help w/ the balancing act that needs to be performed. I really like the solution you've provided. I had been thinking a lot on how to have bottom drains w/o it flooding the sump. These are not criticisms, just me thinking on how to make it easier.
Thanks again,
Steve.
Thanks again,
Steve.
this is an amazing system you came up with not only does it look good the water quality looks great too, i also like how you saved thise fish from the small tanks they previously occupied.RBE17;1324270; said:
The most important goal is to achieve the balance….you can use larger drains but the important thing is that even if you put larger drains the goal is that the floating valves keeps completely open…remember that a floating valve is completely open when the ball is all down….so (you have to keep the surface of the water in the sump in certain level to really take advantage of the bigger drains)….because if the ball is not all down …then there is no purpose of the bigger drains because you are reducing the waterfall…but if you are going to use bigger drains with the floating valves all down….then you need a powerfull pump…because if you dont have it… then the floating valves are not going to be completely open because the water that goes to the tank will be less than the water that goes to the sump by gravity…
In the article I mention that the key valve must be almost closed because in my case the less water to recirculate to the sump the better…because that means that the floating balls are all down….and open……and that means that most of the water is returning to the tank…the goal is to keep the floating valves full open…and avoid the last chamber from getting empty….
It is important to open and close the key valve and see how the water of the last chamber is doing and mark the ideal position of the key valve to balance everything…
In my case with the 3 drains I have a waterfall of 4.5 inches so it is more than enough for the size of the tank….I think…..
Greetings….
I would've gotten so frustrated trying to balance that system. I think it's a great system and I love how you solve the possible flooding problem. It appears that you have a handle on it judging by the clarity of the tank and great condition of your fish.
RBE17;1326464; said:
But how you are going to achieve that?...... the water of the compartment that you are talking about should be the same water that is in the sump...
I mean the water that gets to te compartment arrives from where?
You need water to close the floating valve...but with you example if there is no electric power then the sump is going to overflow because the floating valve is not closing.....because the water is going to the sump not to the compartment....unless of course you connect a pipe between the sump and the compartment....but I think is the same....in that case what you are doing is just expanding the sump.....
