My DIY canister filter...

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The filter is still running (over 48 hours continuous so far without any issues :headbang2).

There is some decrease in water flow, but I think if I leave it until tomorrow and then clean it, then it will really do some good polishing over the weekend. When I clean it, I'll put some 50 micron pads back in to really polish the water.
 
Conner;3763672; said:
To be honest, if I were to do it again, I would cut the pipe in half so that it wasn't as long. There's a lot more room in there than you need (by more than double). Making the tube 12" long, with the two end caps, would give you plenty of room, about the same as a decent commercial canister filter, and would work just as well.

Just make sure you start with a very coarse pad and step your way down to smaller and smaller porosity. That way it will be least likely to clog.
Thanks for your input buddy.I will definitely take that into consideration.I was thinking maybe around 18" so I'll eye ball it when I start. There has been no signs of leakage?Did you also use teflon tape or just screw it together and call it a day?
 
TheFishJunky;3763710; said:
Thanks for your input buddy.I will definitely take that into consideration.I was thinking maybe around 18" so I'll eye ball it when I start. There has been no signs of leakage?Did you also use teflon tape or just screw it together and call it a day?

All slip joints are glued. All screw joints have teflon tape. This makes it easier to take apart.

When I put the makeshift bulkheads through the endcaps, I taped them, screwed them tight, and then liberally siliconed around them. This may or may not be necessary, but I wanted to be safe. I would at least silicone on the inside of the bulkheads for peace of mind.

So far no leaks. I'm not evening using a hose clamp on one of the hose connections... makes it easier to service the filter.
 
Conner;3763747; said:
All slip joints are glued. All screw joints have teflon tape. This makes it easier to take apart.

When I put the makeshift bulkheads through the endcaps, I taped them, screwed them tight, and then liberally siliconed around them. This may or may not be necessary, but I wanted to be safe. I would at least silicone on the inside of the bulkheads for peace of mind.

So far no leaks. I'm not evening using a hose clamp on one of the hose connections... makes it easier to service the filter.
Yeah thats what I planned to do as well as I am sitting here contemplating....I have everything I need in my shed except for the bulkhead fittings and the screw caps(cleanouts) I would assume you used one end cap and one cleanout? I have some rubber end caps that I may be able to use but would rather not waste them.They are freakin expensive.I guess I gotta wait til tomorrow to do mine.I was thinking about a few ways to do something like this using the big sewer clean out things. Kinda hard to explain what they are.Its basically a catch basin where a few sewer lines would meet and you could clean out.But that was just a basic addition to my sump as a major bio chamber.I think I'll save all that cash and go with this simple style of a canister.Another thing I think may be causing yours to clog is in all canister filters theres a small gap all the way around it so the water will be forced to go to the bottom and back up through the layers.So what I am thinking is say you use a 4" piece of pvc-use 3" inserts and then find something like smaller pvc to hold it in place and cause a gapp for the water to flow more freely.What do you think?
 
TheFishJunky;3763811; said:
Yeah thats what I planned to do as well as I am sitting here contemplating....I have everything I need in my shed except for the bulkhead fittings and the screw caps(cleanouts) I would assume you used one end cap and one cleanout? I have some rubber end caps that I may be able to use but would rather not waste them.They are freakin expensive.I guess I gotta wait til tomorrow to do mine.I was thinking about a few ways to do something like this using the big sewer clean out things. Kinda hard to explain what they are.Its basically a catch basin where a few sewer lines would meet and you could clean out.But that was just a basic addition to my sump as a major bio chamber.I think I'll save all that cash and go with this simple style of a canister.Another thing I think may be causing yours to clog is in all canister filters theres a small gap all the way around it so the water will be forced to go to the bottom and back up through the layers.So what I am thinking is say you use a 4" piece of pvc-use 3" inserts and then find something like smaller pvc to hold it in place and cause a gapp for the water to flow more freely.What do you think?

Yes, I used one end cap, and one threaded cleanout. As for clogging, I cut the media slightly larger than the diameter of the tube, so it fits pretty snug. I don't think there's much, if any, channeling going on down the sides. The top filter pad is usually pretty nasty, but as you progress down, they get cleaner and cleaner. Usually the last filter pad is almost clean, without any real gunk in it.
 
Conner,I like your idea and I have a generic question. I would have to assume that anyone contemplating utilizing any type of "auxiliary" or "temporary" mechanical filter vs a pemanently installed canister filter probably has a sump setup. So my question (to anyone) is , do sump systems as a rule not mechanically filter effectively ? I have never owned a sump although I have contemplated converting to one. To achieve decent water clarity does one need both ? What type of filtration do you utilize normally ?
 
dawnmarie;3765235; said:
Conner,I like your idea and I have a generic question. I would have to assume that anyone contemplating utilizing any type of "auxiliary" or "temporary" mechanical filter vs a pemanently installed canister filter probably has a sump setup. So my question (to anyone) is , do sump systems as a rule not mechanically filter effectively ? I have never owned a sump although I have contemplated converting to one. To achieve decent water clarity does one need both ? What type of filtration do you utilize normally ?

No, you can use this type of temporary polishing filter on any setup. Its easier if you have a sump, I think, because then you can probably stuff it in your stand so it doesn't show. But it could be used in any setup.

Sumps can be just as effective as other means of filtration at mechanical filtration. the reason I had issues is because I got lax on cleaning my filter sock. It had gotten so clogged that water was overflowing out of the top, not being filtered. I didn't really notice it, and over the months, a lot of unfiltered gunk got into the biomedia in the sump. This canister filter was built solely to clean out that gunk without upsetting the bacteria in the biomedia.

I've purchased new filter socks, which I will be cleaning/replacing much more frequently, so that hopefully this doesn't happen again.

I prefer sumps for several reasons:
1. adds water volume to the system (always helpful)
2. excellent biological filtration (if utilized as a wet/dry)
3. removed equipment from tank for a cleaner look
4. larger possible variety/combinations of mechanical, chemical, and biological media
 
OK, that explains it. When your sump and filter sock setup is functioning correctly what level of mechanical filtration do you achieve ? I currently filter down to 30 micron. Maybe I could filter less thoroughly and extend my cartridge life.
 
dawnmarie;3765338; said:
OK, that explains it. When your sump and filter sock setup is functioning correctly what level of mechanical filtration do you achieve ? I currently filter down to 30 micron. Maybe I could filter less thoroughly and extend my cartridge life.

My current socks (old socks) are 100 micron. I think the new ones are 100 micron as well. I'd have to double check to be sure though.

With this canister filter, I've got a 50 micron pad that I've cut circles from, so it polishes a little better. I may also lay some 50 micron filter pad down in the sumps as a secondary/final mech filter, maybe in front of the pumps.
 
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