my DIY overflow and sump for 55g piranha tank

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bluehighways

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Nov 10, 2010
72
0
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wisconsin
Okay, here it is, my DIY overflow and sump for my 55g RBP tank. I used 1" PVC for the drain assembly and 3/4" PVC for the pump side. I got the design from the sticky about overflows in this section. The bio sponges were purchased at Family Dollar, 6 for a buck. I have 30 sponges in two stacks which the water must flow through to get back to the pump.

The pump is a Barracuda submersible continuous duty 1/4 hp pump from Menards. It set me back $40. The piping and fittings was another $50. Fittings aren't that much, and pipe is cheap, but the shutoff valves and union joints were almost half the cost of piping. The pump return line is fitted to the base of my tank stand (also made by me, out of Hackberry wood) and just the other day I built a new sprayer head that sits a bit higher in the tank, aims the current the long way, and really makes a stiff current in the tank.

The piranhas instantly loved having a current to swim against, and they appear much more content now. They're more active than before. The pump is really powerful. It flows 1500 gph with the restrictor valve wide open. That's too much for the drain to handle, and it will overflow the tank, so right now it's set about 3/4 of the way open.

My wife and I are moving into a new house in March, and the reason for such a powerful pump is that I intent to run my 55g and 40g side by side, with and overflow for each. Both will dump into the common sump box and I will build a split head so the pump can power both tanks. At that point I'll be able to run it wide open and it should work perfectly. The pump also carries a two year warranty.

Now here's something to consider if you feel inclined to build a supercharged Tool-Time super sump like mine: Cost of operation. The pump draws 3.8 amps at 110 volts. Amps x volts = Watts.

3.8 x 110 = 418 watts. This is unlike a heater, the pump runs 24/7. So I am continuously drawing .418 kilowatt hours on the meter. All the time. One kilowatt hour here is $0.091617

So... Okay screw the math lesson. It costs me just a hair under a dollar a day to run that pump. $30 tacked onto my electric bill, just to filter two fish tanks. Something to consider if you build. But boy that thing sure can move water! And the real upside is that I've removed the 200 watt heater altogether. Just the heat of the pump keeps the tank water plus the 18 gallon sump at a balmy 83 degrees! WOW! So when I use it to power two tanks, that should drop a bit, and I can supplement with a small submersible heater in the bottom of the sump if I need to.
 
That pump does 1500gph at 3.8a? Seems like a very ineffecient pump. I have a 5200gph pump on our koid pond that draws 2.7a, or about 300w.

A Quiet One 6000 for example, pumps 1664gph and draws only 135w. That pump may have been cheap, but you're paying for it every month in your bill. For 1500gph, you should be paying about 1/3 of that every month :)
 
I have made revisions to my sump system. It now filters 2 tanks, a 55g and 40g breeder. I made two new siphon tubes from 1.5" PVC. Each one can handle the full output of the pump by itself, so together the pump runs wide open and the drains handle the return water quite nicely.

I upgraded the bio-ball trays to a 5g bucket with around 70 bio sponges (dollar store scrubbies) in it.

It does make some noise, but not so much as to be annoying. It functions really well. My water quality is impeccable, and the fish are happy. I installed shutoff valves to each tank on both the influent and effluent sides of the system.

The siphon design was taken from the MFK sticky on overflows. Any questions on specifics please PM me.

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kinda bootleg, but good design, not sure i would keep this setup in the open, and is that the most ineffecient pump on this planet? reeflo hammerhead gold is 5555gph at 272 watts. i like the DIY, but you need to find a way to hide it or something
 
i like the diy-ness of the setup, but isnt the idea for a diy project to be somewhat "cheap"? The way youve been able to calculate your electric bill already after installing your new sump should have thrown a red flag. I would try to find a new pump, or if you really want to get fancy, when you make your move, put some alt. energy on the house (i.e. solar or wind turbine) which will not only save your bill, but will save your fish in an outage. I've been brainstorming all winter some alternative energy solutions that could possibly totally run my setups at just startup cost. Just some ideas. But like you I also hate seeing that power bill after I've already poured time effort and $ into a project. Hope those RBPs really appreciate it!
 
brich999;4877661; said:
kinda bootleg, but good design, not sure i would keep this setup in the open, and is that the most ineffecient pump on this planet? reeflo hammerhead gold is 5555gph at 272 watts. i like the DIY, but you need to find a way to hide it or something

I will be building a box that the whole thing fits into. All anyone will see is the drains going into two holes in the top.

I looked up the data on hammerhead pumps. They are somewhat more efficient than the cheap-o Menards special that I run. They're also between $500 and $700 :WHOA:

The difference in up front cost is too much for me to justify purchasing one of these, just to save one hundred or so watts of draw. My pump cost $35, and has a three year warranty. Also, it transfers heat into the water, keeping both tanks at 80 degrees fahrenheit, eliminating the need to run a 200 watt heater in each tank. That has to be taken into account when figuring in cost of operation.
 
bluehighways;4878873;4878873 said:
I will be building a box that the whole thing fits into. All anyone will see is the drains going into two holes in the top.

I looked up the data on hammerhead pumps. They are somewhat more efficient than the cheap-o Menards special that I run. They're also between $500 and $700 :WHOA:

The difference in up front cost is too much for me to justify purchasing one of these, just to save one hundred or so watts of draw. My pump cost $35, and has a three year warranty. Also, it transfers heat into the water, keeping both tanks at 80 degrees fahrenheit, eliminating the need to run a 200 watt heater in each tank. That has to be taken into account when figuring in cost of operation.
You don't seem to understand math and logic very well, so I'll help you out here (kidding!)

I propose you dump that pump and buy something like the Quiet One 6000. It does 1664gph and goes for about $140.

Your pump does 1500gph at 418w. Your operating costs for 1 year are about $340.

The Quiet One does 1664gph at 135w. Your operating cost for 1 year are about $110.

That's a cost savings of $230 in electricity for 1 year ALONE! That more than makes up for the $100 price difference of the pump ($40 vs $140). In fact, the savings would pay off the new pump in 5 months!

I don't understand your rationale for buying that grossly ineffecienct pump. Just trying to help you out here. I hate to see people spending more money than they need or should be :)
 
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