My DIY Stand and Hood for my first aquarium, a 71 gallon tank for Axolotl

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Blazed Monkey

Gambusia
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2011
8
0
16
Kansas City
I figured, what better way to make my first real post here, than to share the buildup of the custom stand and hood that I built for my first aquarium; a 71gal, 3'x2x19" tank which will be the permanent home to somewhere between 4-7 Axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum). Hope you guys enjoy the thread as much as I enjoyed the build........well, more actually, this totally killed my back for about 2 weeks :grinno:




The Stand:


I've included some pics of the frame design, so if anyone else wants to use it they are welcome to. The entire thing will be shrouded in plywood, which will be stained a very deep brown, and the 3' face will have 2 cabinet doors on it.



DAY 1:


Google Sketchup design:










and parts list:

2x4 Cut List

1@2x4x12' = ( 6@22.5" ),
6@2'x4'x84" = ( 37.5"+25.25"+18.25" )x4, ( 3@18.25"+21.75" )x2

Which correlates to the picture:
6@22.5" - Yellow
4@37.5" - Red
4@25.25" - Green
10@18.25" - Blue
2@21.75" - Purple



2@4'x8'x3/4" Sheet Plywood
1@27"*39" (Top)
2@25.25"*39" (Front & Back)
2@25.5"*25.25" (Sides)
2@14"*18.75" (cabinet doors)

Sheet 1:
Rip @ 39",discard 9"strip, vert cut 2@25.25", 1@27"

Sheet 2:
Rip @ 14", cut 2@18.75"
Rip @ 25.5", cut 2@25.25"



This is what I have waiting for me to put together:


(there is more here than what I need, I screwed up on my 2x4 lengths that I needed at first, but fixed it while I was cutting. Adjustments have been corrected and all dimensions currently listed above are the correct board lengths needed)



One more shot before I get to work (only materials that will be used in the build, scrap set aside):



-Countersink Bit
-Black Paint for tank and foam
-2.75" Deck Screws
-1&5/8" Gold Screws
-Multipak of drillbits for pilot holes (for when I inevitably snap some)
-41"x29"x1" Pink Foam (will be trimmed to exact tank base once tank is placed on top, I just had to cut it down to get it in my car and get it home)
-Stain for the plywood (I used exterior deck stain)
-Foam Rollers
-Hinges for cabinet doors
-New razor blade for knife
-GFCI plugin
-Multitap

2x4 Cut List

6@22.5" - Yellow
4@37.5" - Red
4@25.25" - Green
10@18.25" - Blue
2@21.75" - Purple


Sheet Ply
1@27"*39" (TOP)
2@25.25"*39" (F&B)
2@25.5"*25.25" (Sides)
2@14"*18.75" (cabinet doors)




Top and bottom put together:




Test Fit (no screws yet):




Supporting frame complete:



Flipped on the side so I could attach the surround panels:



Ready to cut the holes for the door faces (If anybody is reading this as an instructional, keep in mind that it is easier to flip over the face panel and trace your cutout from the INSIDE of the frame, then do your door cutouts BEFORE you attach it to the frame permanently. I just had a new toy and wanted to try something different) :








DAY 2:

Spent about 2 hours sanding:



Holes for the doors cut out:



Doesn't look like much has changed, but, the entire top piece is trimmed, and one cabinet door is trimmed out:





Cutting the exact right length piece on a 45 angle for trim is a PAIN! One stick chipped on me (I'm not using a finish blade like I should be), so I'll have to pick up another stick and finish the second door tomorrow. Then, the doors get sanded, and everything gets a first coat of stain.






DAY 3:Got a lot done tonight, although it doesn't look like much, trim takes FOR-EV-ER! I also pulled the top off, and evened out the shroud so it is perfectly level with the skeleton, that way the top rests perfectly flat and makes contact with every point of the frame underneath, so weight is transferred evenly. Ear plugs and 45 minutes with a dremel multimax, and the top was ready to go back on.


I had to pick up extra trim anyway because of the stick I broke, so I just picked up enough to finish ALL the exposed edges of the cabinet. At $0.36/ft it doesn't add any significant cost, and it will make it look much cleaner in the end.



All the trim finally on, all the trim nail holes plugged and sanded:




First cabinet door done:





Used the T-square to make sure that the cabinets were level with each other, and equidistant from the edges:




Both doors secured to the frame:









I was hoping to stain tonight, but it doesn't look like that will happen. My back has had enough for the night, and I need to blow off all the dust before I stain. Considering it is 1:15am, I don't think my neighbors would appreciate me opening the garage and firing up the compressor :thumbsdow



DAY 4:

Moving it out to the garage to stain. There is MAYBE 1" clearance on either side. Glad I accounted for that in my design. If it was any bigger, it would have to have been built inside the room it was destined for:




Door pulls on. Just went with basic wood ones because they match, and they were only $0.94. The stand is up on 2x4's so it is not sitting directly on the blanket. This serves both to allow me to paint all the way down to the bottom without gunking up my brushes with dirt from the floor, or painting the floor, and it also has the added benefit of keeping me from getting hollered at by my father when I show him the pictures later (as it's his blanket).:





First coat of stain on. I don't know what that blob is at the top of the screen, maybe sawdust or stain. At any rate, I love the color. It looks darker in the picture than it actually is due to crappy low lighting and my only camera being my cell phone, so just.....imagine it lighter :P :





This pic shows the color a little better, although it is still just a hair lighter in person. As far as I can tell just by eyeballing and walking back and forth between rooms, it actually matches the rest of my furniture almost exactly, which is what I was shooting for.





Now, to paint the tank and the foam while the stain dries. After that, a quick light sand to fix my mistakes while staining (Always go WITH the grain of the wood, never across. Watch for drips, as they turn into blobs that will need to be sanded and fixed if not smoothed before they dry and crust. It's not like painting a wall, where you go back and forth....wipe in one direction, like you are wiping crumbs off a table into your hand....this removes excess stain, smooths it down so you don't see any transition, and makes it looks much more natural). After sanding, another quick touch-up with the stain, a clear seal cote for the interior, and it should be ready to go!





DAY 5:

-Finished painting the tank, got the trim tape pulled off, looks good (picture isn't even worth uploading)
-Put a clear seal coat on the entire inside of the cabinet to help with moisture issues
-Got my top foam board cut to size and painted



I am also doing a foam piece in the base as well, which will get painted black. This will just serve as a lightweight base for the cabinet, that is waterproof, and will also insulate from the ground:

I set the cabinet on top of a sheet of foam that it was slightly larger than, and grabbed a giant knife


Using the knife, I cut along the inside perimeter of the base, just enough to give me a guide so that I could cut through it once I took the cabinet off


Pretty solid fit





Test fit of the painted top foam sheet. There will be a 1.5" lip all around between the cabinet and the foam, and a 1.5" between the tank and the foam, so once the tank is on, it will all stair step up evenly to the base of the tank:





DAY 7:

Front view:


View from my recliner:



A better shot of the tank and stand all together:






First fill, 27 hours elapsed, currently housing 3 goldfish on loan from my sister to get my tank cycling:





The HOB filters are temporary, as well as the desk lamp on top. I will be building a proper top for it with lights, and running the cords through a cutout in the side of the stand. You will only see, at most, 2 tubes going into the back of the tank by the time everything is completely finalized.



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And now, onto the hood!
 
The Hood

Goal:
-Functional hood
-2 sets of 2 lights, each set controlled independently
-fits together so that when the lid is opened to access the tank, light it not glaring in my face
-Room to add fans later if I find they are needed for cooling in the summer, as Axo's require lower temps than most fish.

Click on the pics for a larger view


Day 1:

Basic Overview:
hoodtop.jpg

hoodbottom.jpg



Supplies (not all supplies were used, some are going back as the plan was redesigned halfway through):
hood01.jpg


Back half assembly coming together, trim rail mounted:
hood02.jpg


Front half, upside down on top of back half:
hood03.jpg



How it sits when it is open:
hood04.jpg


Showing inside perimeter:
hood05.jpg



Getting the weatherproof sockets positioned:
hood06.jpg



Wiring solved (this is just a rough-out to test the wiring and the light output, shrink-tube and solder will be used on the final assembly):
hood07.jpg



Sanded, ready for outside stain and inside clearcoat (just like the stand):
hood08.jpg



Stain and clear coat applied, drying:
hood09.jpg



Particulate mask I used while spraying and staining, so I didn't get all loopy and OD myself on fumes:
hood10.jpg



Back piece test fit, perfect sizing (this is why I always draw schematics and make precise cuts :))
hood11.jpg



On the tank, lights out:
hood12.jpg


Red Only:
hood13.jpg

hood17.jpg



White Only:
hood14m.jpg

hood18.jpg



Red and White together:
hood15.jpg

hood16.jpg





A video showing the 3 lighting setups (NOTE - there is no flicker when you see the lights in person, this is just an effect caused by my camera as it is trying to adjust for light levels):
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Day 2:


Supplies for today:
hoodday21.jpg




The foil tape is less than $7 for 150 yards, and it makes a great reflector that will hold up over time if applied properly, it is SUPER thin, and it is sticky-backed. I used a credit card to smooth it on.




Foil half way done, and some of the wiring. My Dad was working on the wiring while I was doing the foil. He is my personal electrician, and I appreciate him greatly :)
hoodday22.jpg







Foil tape done, now we can finish wiring. Every connection gets soldered and shrink-tubed:
hoodday23.jpg






Everything wired. It is also stapled so that nothing is loose except for a single slack wire which allows the hood to open and push the lid backwards. Silicone was added where the wires pass through the wall of the box, to waterproof.

Testing the lights. You can see the switch on the side closest to you. It is the size of a single normal light switch, but it has 3 small switches on it instead. The first 2 switches each control one pair of lights. The third switch is open for now, but may be used later to power a couple fans if I need cooling in the summer:
hoodday24.jpg






One additional piece to add to the front inside corner. This holds on to the front of the tank, so there is no wiggle or slide, basically locking the frame of the lid to the top of the tank, while still allowing the front piece to open and close:
hoodday216.jpg







Series of shots to compare to yesterdays post, when there was no foil. Brightness is increased greatly, but also diffused and dispersed more smoothly through the tank. I took shots both with and without the flash today.

Red Only, with flash:
hoodday25.jpg

hoodday26.jpg







White and Red, with flash:
hoodday29.jpg

hoodday210.jpg


White and Red, no flash:
hoodday213.jpg

hoodday214.jpg

hoodday215.jpg








White only, in rear, with flash:
hoodday27.jpg

hoodday28.jpg


White only, in front, no flash:
hoodday219.jpg

hoodday2120.jpg



240 Watts (CFL's=56 Watts actual) of White light (all 4 bulbs white):
hoodday217.jpg

hoodday218.jpg











Comparison of hood front panel on and off, to show the light containment:
hoodday211.jpg

hoodday212.jpg
 
fantastic write up!! its hard to believe you only had 8 posts!! i hope things went well for you since that tank went together.

dave
 
Very nice step by step. You missed nothing in between. This is very helpful to those trying to build a stand.
 
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