My first discus setup....I hope...

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

XDUDE3D

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 8, 2010
81
0
0
Denver, CO.
www.3dartwork.net
Hey everyone! I hope this forum turns out to be as kool as it seems, as a lot of forums I have joined in the past were a bit of a letdown in the end.

Anyways, here is a little background:
I purchased a used 55 gallon wide tank, came to find out that was lied to and was older than I thought (made in 1988, ugh) but, looks brand new. It holds water, no leaks but am worried that it might need a fresh bead of silicon (even though it's currently full and fine) The tank did not come with a stand so I built my own (will post pictures if my setup continues as is). Anyways, this tank was originally going to be my first salt setup, but as I studied more and more decided to wait on salt for a bigger tank that I will be getting after we move in the months to come.

Now I am going for a freshwater tank.
I want to do 6 discus (2-yellow marlboros, 2-royal reds & 2-blue diamonds
) along with a couple bottom feeders (albino cory catfish maybe) and or algae eaters (if needed & compatible). I am setting up my tank with a 3D background (most likely THIS ONE).

I am not going to use under gravel filters, as I don't like them much, plus I am going with caribsea eco-complete planted black substrate (sand) with ONLY live plants :D

Now to the filter setup.... I HAVE NO IDEA! lol... I read that I should not use chemical or mechanical, but only bio filters with discus & at least a 50% water change once a week. But, can I just use a standard canister filter (any suggestions?), with only bio media in place of the other media? Or do I need to setup the same wet/dry sump deal as I was planning for my salt setup before?

I think this is a good start, will post more as I can think of more but this is the direction of my tank now (if I am thinking correctly). Thanks in advance for any advice, comments & help!
 
IMO - DONT use a UG filter!!!!!!! They are crap.:irked:

If the tank is in good shape I dont think there is any reason to mess with the seal. If it holds water they you are good!:headbang2

I think a canister with Bio media would work for your filter. A lot of folks use Sponge filters. As for water changes - think more like 50% 2 to 3 times a week at least (IMO). I dont think there is any reason for a wet dry. They work fine but not needed.

There are other things to consider, if you start with young fish you might need more water changes. A lot of folks like bare bottom tanks as they are easy to keep clean. BTW - That background looks NICE! I have Cory's in my tank and some tetras wich both do fine.

Ask lotsa questions - read lotsa info and go slow bro!

I am 1/2 asleep so I may post more later when I can see streight!:eek:

Arkangel77
 
I posted half asleep also, but thanks for that because I was 2nd guessing myself everywhere. I have had tanks, helped others with their tanks for over 12 years, but this is the first serious setup with serious fish, so, I want to get it right. I want them to live happy.:grinno:

My setup is feet away from a restroom entry so water changes should not be too big of a deal, just have to work them into my busy life. But from the way discus act more like pets than a hobby fish, they are worth the extra time.

Yeah, I am excited about that background, just talked to them today about ordering info, not cheap but nor is the look.

I am not trying to get out of water changes, but would doubling up on filters or a really good canister setup in the end keep the need for new water down to 1 time a week? I am just used to doing a tank change once a month (+ or - a week based off test), so 2 or 3 times a week seems a bit :nilly:..... If that is what has to be done, fine, but if there is a way to lighten the need for new water, would like to do it (health/cost willing).

If a canister filter will do, what would be a good one? I am thinking one that is rated for about 2-3 times my tanks size... Would like the rena XP3 with lots of bio media in all baskets (no chemical or mechanical media) be ideal? If I step up to a XP4, will water stay more to the discus liking a bit longer? Or, am I good with a XP1/XP2, or the original filter I was going to use, the marineland magnum 350 and just do a 30 to 50% change a few times a week...........................?
 
IMO - No mater what kinda filter you got the water changes need to happen. I felt the same way when I got started and I learned that they need to happen, period. IMO again- when it comes to filters more is better - SOOO???? You decide what works for you. You might consider reading threw simplydiscus.com they got some reap pro's over there man.

Arkangel77
 
IMO sponge filter supported with canister filter works best for discus tank. If you are starting with discus, nothing better than barebottom tank. Also frequent water-changes is the key to success of discus-keeping.

If your discus go stunted, sick or badly-shaped by not following basic rules, there is no second chance really.
 
No matter how much filtration you have, it's not going to remove fish waste, it's just going to break it down into relatively harmless nitrate, which you need to remove with water changes.
6 discus in 200 litres of water doesn't strike me as especially heavily stocked. Depending on how much you feed, I reckon you could probably get away with 1x50% water change per week.

If you put some decent lighting on the tank you should be able to grow live plants at a fair rate too, which should help consume some of the nitrate. I've had the best success with Ceratopteris thalictroides/watersprite and Hygrophila polysperma. With moderate lighting, a bit of fertilizer and no CO2 each of my ceratopteris seem to grow at least one new 40cm/16" frond per week.

I'd probably go with a canister filter that pumps 1000-1200 litres per hour (263-315 gallons per hour), and an air powered sponge filter with air stone, for aeration as much as additional filtration. I'd aim the spray bar from the canister return so that it's not creating too much current.
 
You could make water changes really easy by doing a little plumbing like I did on my 240 gallon sting ray tank. I have a sump that I drilled a hole in the side about 1 1/2" from the top and plumbed that into my household drain plumbing under the house. Next I ran the line from my R/O unit (1/4") to the discharge side of the sump.
So now, when I want/need to do a water change, I just open the valve to the R/O unit and let it run.
 
sunvalley aquarist;4059315; said:
You could make water changes really easy by doing a little plumbing like I did on my 240 gallon sting ray tank. I have a sump that I drilled a hole in the side about 1 1/2" from the top and plumbed that into my household drain plumbing under the house. Next I ran the line from my R/O unit (1/4") to the discharge side of the sump.
So now, when I want/need to do a water change, I just open the valve to the R/O unit and let it run.

I sOOOOOOO wish this was an Option for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I am in the process of getting my tank all setup now and have another quick question. I am wanting to change the light in my hood to a 6500k or maybe 10000k rating, but, what is the recommended lighting for a discus tank? I know cichlid tanks do not like too bright, but, discus are a bit different in some areas, would this be one of the areas?

Thanks
 
Discus dont love bright light. However if you bring it up slow they will do fine with bright light. I use timmers to bring the lights up and then shut them down over time.

Good luck.

Arkangel77
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com