My first DIY pvc overflow **PICS**

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
It's not even a check valve, it's a brass 1/4" fitting from lowes that was dirt cheap. I figured I can suck on the tube to re prime it if necessary or to get air out of the system, and cork the tube with a plastic cap/plug when not in use. It should work fine I reckon.
 
Also does the last tube above the T have to be that long? or can it be lower than the top U? 'cause it looks ugly and ridiculous all high behind the tank like that. Then again I haven't gotten to building the hood yet.. :)
 
Tilapia Buttikoferi;2160508; said:
Also does the last tube above the T have to be that long? or can it be lower than the top U? 'cause it looks ugly and ridiculous all high behind the tank like that. Then again I haven't gotten to building the hood yet.. :)
Click to expand...

It just needs to be higher than the water level. Keep it as high as possible without being visible.
 
Well, I made couple of more modifications including changes the design to make it fit in the tank with less visability/bulkiness. Last night I primed and glued it together and today I was able to get 2 full coats of krylon fusion paint on it. I now consider the overflow done and I plan on running another elbow and a ball valve right before it dump's into the sump..

A few pic's of the finished overflow.. :headbang2

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Here is the overflow awaiting the sump.
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The sump will be constructed of glue, screws, wood and MDF, coated in fiberglass resin and painted white on the inside, black on the outside. It is 30 gallons and will incorporate 3 main chambers. The first being the intake/heating chamber which spills over onto the drip plate via bio wheel. After the water flows through the drip plate it run's through a mecca of bio balls, thenwater polishing filterfloss, then carbon and lastly it has to go through a sponge filter afixed to the pump chamber inlet, into the pump chamber.

PLEASE give me some positive feedback and constructive criticism on this. I need all the help I can get! ;)
 
H mm, I would add the filtering pad both before and after the bio balls. I would also leave out the bio wheel as it only truly works in a tide pool sump, and use that space to make and even larger area for bio balls. It will give you more biological filtration in the long run and pays off. Other than that it looks like your sump is looking like a sump should (other than the great wood idea.)
 
nice looking overflow!!

I just learned alot from this thread thanks . Do you need to be careful of what paint or glue you use to make this?? I'm in the middle of making one myself.
 
You just have to make sure the glue is non-toxic after it has dried.
 
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